Accent LC (2000-05) :: Heater Not Blowing Enough Heat
Dec 11, 2012
My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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The heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
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So the story goes that one day my 2013 RX350 stop blowing heat from the air vent. I took my car in the dealer to have to take a look. First of all, it took them a WHOLE week to diagnosis the problem, second of all, a consultant told me that he FOUND a pen inside the heater box that caused the gear shaft to break, which is used to control the heater doors...
What is he talking about? More importantly, he's saying I "accidentally dropped a pen" from the passenger side compartment storage and it somehow caused the heater door broke?
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I'm having the same issue as many others with the heat blowing cold air. I have read through the other post ad tried the blend door, actutator, vaccine lines, control ***, and both lines going in and out are hot to touch when warmed up. I am now lost!
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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I took my 2000 V6 Passat into the shop because my heater vents were blowing cold. They tested the system and told me the following:
The hoses leading to the heating core are warm, but no warm air is leaving the heater core, indicating that it's plugged up with corrosion. They testing the coolant fluid and found that the incorrect coolant had been put into the system and that the fluid was carrying an electrical charge that must be corroding the aluminum portions of the system. In addition, the engine temp sensor is kaput and never goes up.
They offered a garden hose flush the heating system for a few hundred bucks, but warned that it is only 50% successful. They recommend replacing the heating core.
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My 00 f-150 is not blowing air through the heater I replaced heater core and the temp door I had same problem before work done I did not see an issue when apart but no vacuum or electric to test when apart. The only thing that changes when I move selector for vent floor and defrost I do get a little better flow when on vent. My feet get cold and defrost is not working well if I put hand on defrost I feel warm air but 3-4" away when on floor; I feel nothing anything at all fan seems fine.
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
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I have a 2003 Accent and I'm having a problem with the brake lights not working. The tail lamps work when the night lights are turned on so it's not a bulb issue. The brake lights keep blowing the fuse. Brake lights will only work with a fresh, new fuse but only works for about a trip, give or take and then its blown.
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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My 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.
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I have a 2005 accent that keeps blowing the ecu 1 fuse. It is also showing a code for "system voltage low", and the battery is wet around both posts. I read somewhere else that the alternator could be surging and blowing this fuse. Had both alternator and battery checked at autozone, battery is said to be on the way out and alternator shows its fine. Battery does not show any problems, start car just fine.
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I've got a 99 with manual heater with no heat, a 23 code from the bcm, pulled fuse 19 for 5 minutes, still the same.Also when it was hot and we were running the air the passenger floor was wet. my question is what do I have to take off the dash (and how without breaking) to get to the heater?
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
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I cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
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07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
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