Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
View 1 Replies2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesMy switch is bad. I took it out and looked at it and cleaned it up and put it back in. The lever slides smoothly without stopping at the desired speed. Contact is made but the switch likes to pop up out of the assembly. I could use zip ties to keep it in, but like I said, it doesn't work properly anyway. I have looked everywhere in the searches and used parts links on the Geo Forum but can't find one.
Any blower switch that I can put in my Geo Metro '97, 1.0L, 3 cyl., base model with std. trans.? I need the switch/cover that is at the top of the picture, It pops in above the lever and by the 4 little clip rectangular holes coming up from the assembly.
Inside the switch there is a small spring and ball bearing about the size of a bb that causes the switch to "click". Spring and ball disappeared long ago. -- From a different thread. Does the spring and ball bearing come with the switch or is that a separate item?
2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2005 accent and recently the blower motor started working intermittently.. After a couple of days of it coming on and off it now wont come on at all.. After checking the 30amp fuse under the hood, and the relay they all seemed to be in good shape, I even swapped them out with other fuses and relays to make sure that wasn't the problem. I checked for power at the Motor and it has 12 volts going to it when the fan switch is on.. so I pulled the blower motor itself and connected it directly to a 12 volt source and it worked, eliminating the possibility of the motor itself being seized. Now I read up on a few sites on how to check the resistor, so I did a few continuity tests on the resistor itself and didn't see anything out of the normal.. What I should check next or what the actual values on the resistor check I should be reading..
View 1 Replies2005Accent. First question: Just replaced blower assembly last week and worked normally. Now the blower operates even with the car off and the no keys in the ignition. The fan speed selector still switches between all speeds whether it's running or not, so it doesn't seem to be the resistor.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 RepliesMy batteries drained twice and now I prob. need new ones but with the key off I can turn the blower on any speed and the passenger airbag light blinks. I hear the clicking from a relay under the dash when I do this. I have checked for leaks in the windshield and found none . The fuse box and the GEM are completely dry. My ignition switch will pull out with the key in it . I noticed this just the past few weeks . Now yesterday my odometer speedometer quit. It did pull a code for this. Maybe it is connected maybe not . My odl light is flashing but still works. My cruise doesn't but I realize it is connected to speedometer.
2000 F350 supercab diesel....
The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
View 7 RepliesMy heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Passport is really sluggish when taking off. It goes really slow and then eventually picks up speed. I was thinking it was the transmission but last week the car wouldn't start either. So we replaced the battery and then it started. Wondering if this is an electrical issue that is causing this and not the transmission.
View 1 Replies2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
View 7 RepliesAfter changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
I drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.
My 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
Car starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
View 6 RepliesI am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
View 15 RepliesMy 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!