Accent LC (2000-05) :: Hard Time Getting Uphill
Jul 10, 2014
This isn't my car, but It is my grandparents and I drive it often to my doctors 80 miles away, and to meetings 100 miles away. Both directions are very hilly and one of the road has 3 mile inclines. 2005 Hatch, Automatic.
Fresh spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, air filter. 95k miles.
Gas mileage is ok, but it has a really hard time getting up hill. I will be almost pedal to the floor going up the hill for 3 miles at 3k RPM.
Is this something I should be turning OD off for? I checked the manual and OD wasn't mentioned in the glossary.
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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We've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
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What would be causing me to smell a hot burnt rubber smell when I go up hills. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent 5 speed manual...
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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I have a Hyundai Accent 1500, 2001 model which wont start first time but will on second or third try. I was told it was low fuel pressure so fitted new fuel pump and filter but it is still the same. What could it be.
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My Mother has an accent 1.3 glx on a 55 plate the problem she has is that every time she accelerates the car does a hiccup (her words not mine) the engine management light comes on and off and then its fine.
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Just got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
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I keep getting p0420 and p0112. All new parts with in the last 10k miles new battery , starter , alternator , spark plugs , 02 sensors both bank 1 and 2 , catalytic converter aka exhast manifold , new map sensor , timing belt
The car drives fine it just hesitates to start up almost every time. Car has 210k miles
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My sister is having an odd issue on her 3-door accent. The hatch-open indicator light is on all the time. But when you press the brake pedal the light goes out. She has to disconnect the battery every night so it won't wear down.
Most of the suggestions were to check the sensor/latch at the hatch. But if the light is going out when you press the brake pedal - then the problem is nothing to do with the sensor. I think it might be a bad ground somewhere. I've taken the sensor/latch completely apart - the problem is not there.
She had this problem a few years ago. I wiggled and pulled on every harness under the dash, and I removed, checked, and reinstalled the rear bulbs. I don't think any of that worked, but eventually the light went out on its own. But now the problem is back. I think the problem might go away and come back depending on the moisture in the air.
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I just got a 2000 passat wagon with a 1.8t and tiptronic transmission. The questions is when it is cold the transmission has a hard time to start driving. But as soon as it is warm it drives great. It is throwing a check engine code havent checked it yet.
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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I recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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2004 accent had a drink spill on lower console, and think this is why it quit shifting? Disassembled, cleaned switches, unhooked battery, and car still has no reverse, shifts HARD into drive, will not move further.
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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