Accent LC (2000-05) :: HVAC Blower Won't Shut Off
Apr 10, 2013
2005Accent. First question: Just replaced blower assembly last week and worked normally. Now the blower operates even with the car off and the no keys in the ignition. The fan speed selector still switches between all speeds whether it's running or not, so it doesn't seem to be the resistor.
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My girlfriend has a 2005 accent and recently the blower motor started working intermittently.. After a couple of days of it coming on and off it now wont come on at all.. After checking the 30amp fuse under the hood, and the relay they all seemed to be in good shape, I even swapped them out with other fuses and relays to make sure that wasn't the problem. I checked for power at the Motor and it has 12 volts going to it when the fan switch is on.. so I pulled the blower motor itself and connected it directly to a 12 volt source and it worked, eliminating the possibility of the motor itself being seized. Now I read up on a few sites on how to check the resistor, so I did a few continuity tests on the resistor itself and didn't see anything out of the normal.. What I should check next or what the actual values on the resistor check I should be reading..
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Today something strange happened to HVAC. The air blower is always set at full speed regardless of the HVAC setting, mode, etc. The fan speed control does nothing now, even turning the HVAC off is not working.
The only way is to shut the ignition, even when the ignition is off, the solar ventilation function works even when it is set to off!
I believe that a relay or a contractor from the solar ventilation is jammed but not sure because I've re coded the roof electronics to "no sunroof" at all but still didn't work.
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I have a problem that's sprung up all of a sudden and I wanted to run it by you before taking it in to VW. For the past three days or so the blower on my Phaeton's HVAC has been unresponsive to my control, staying on its highest setting permanently, even when I turn off the car.
This of course means that overnight power management takes over and when I get to the car in the morning I have to unlock it with the physical key, the clock has to be reset and I get all kinds of warnings about level fault and system fault. These warnings go away immediately as the car powers up, and everything is back to normal except for the fan.
I've tried resetting all settings on the control unit, but since the fan stays on even when the car is off, I feel like it's not software? The rest of the HVAC settings seem to work fine- I can toggle the vents and change the temperature, just not the blower speed.
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I'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
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A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
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My 1995 Ford motorhome blower does not work. The motor works fine. All threads say to follow the circuits to troubleshoot. That is nearly impossible with wiring harnesses. I need a Ford F- Series HVAC wiring schematic to find ALL of the electrical components, in order to test.
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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I am struggling with it, and need to get it done - by myself, as I can't afford a service job. I am handy, and comfortable doing it, But I am confused about how to get into the blower housing.
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So I just picked up a 08 STL. I noticed that it doesn't get a lot of airflow out of the vents or floor. I initially thought that it was door actuators. I checked the vacuum at all of them and they all cycled as required.
I also checked the blend door, and the fresh air doors as well. They all cycled as desired. When I was checking my fresh air door with the borescope, I noticed a layer of... insulation maybe? on top of the inlet for the blower. So I removed the blower, and the picture below is looking up into the housing. Is that supposed to be there? It appears extremely dense, so I am led to believe that's what is causing my flow issues.
If it does not belong, how to remove it? Where is the fresh air inlet on this thing?
Full size : [URL] .....
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Car starts and run find when cold. Shut off when warm up , will not restart? Could this be a crank sensor problem?
2004 accent GS with 150,000
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Just got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
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I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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My HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
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Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
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My son's car overheated yesterday due to a sudden crack in the radiator. He had it towed to me. There was no evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked block, so I replaced the radiator. Since the battery was dead, I put the charger on it. When I did that, the heater/AC fan began to blow. The only way I could get it to stop was to disconnect the battery. Even the ignition switch had no bearing on the fan.
I do not know if the overheating and this problem are related. It may be just a coincidence, but it is odd.
This car has a slide to regulate the blower speed. It is not one of those "Select a temp" automatic ones. It will blow cold air out the AC vents when AC is selected, but when the OFF button is selected ambient air goes to the DEFROST vents.
I suspect a relay is stuck, but what relay, and where is it located?
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
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I bought a 02 accent base model hb 5 speed 109k miles for a winter car (have a mustang in garage.) It ran good until tonight when the timing belt snapped. I know this because while driving it made some ticking noises and then shut off and when you try to start it the noise that comes indicates no compression so the belt must've snapped and bent the valves.
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