Noise sounds like its coming from driver's side. It's not terrible until you hit 30-40km/h, after that its quite loud. No whistling sounds, which i was told to listen for if it were a wheel bearing (although I ma not convinced is the only sound a warn bearing makes).
The sound sometimes goes away when I am on a bend turning left (taking the weight off the drivers side wheel).
The other day I replace the front brake pads and rotors on my daughter's '03 Accent. On the test drive I noticed a scraping noise coming from the driver's side. Got it home and didn't see anything obvious, but for fun I removed the pads and swapped the shims around. It was better, and afterwards I put the new brakes through a few heat cycles. The scraping noise became less noticeable so I figured she should just drive it for a few days. Well today I'm informed that the noise is "really bad".
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
View 6 RepliesSo I had all of my belts changed including timing belt and tensioner pulley as well as an oil change. After, I noticed a weird pulsating grinding/wining noise coming from the engine bay. It only can be heard once the car is warmed up. (It is much louder in real life.).
Car Noise - YouTube
A year ago I heard occasional metal grinding noise coming from the front, sounding like front driver side. Sounded like CV joints that I heard before. The mechanic said it's transfer case/transmission problem, so I replaced the transmission but the noise came back a few days later. The mechanic said to drive it for a while and the noise may go away, if getting worse he can fix it since it has 2-year warranty.
Now a year later the noise becomes predicable and easily reproducible, I went back and asked them to check. They said it may be passenger side axle. I am feeling being manipulated.
2011 F150 Limited 4wd 6.2 liter. I just bought the truck a few weeks ago with 26,000 miles. Late last week I began hearing a mild grind/rustling noise that appears to come from the driver's front. It's not terribly loud (loud enough to hear), but it's annoying. It happens when I slow down (on and off the brake and below 25-30 mph) as well as let off and begin to speed up. It doesn't last but a second after I let off the brake and speed up though. The kicker is it does not happen all of the time. I drove it home from work last night and it did not do it one time, but driving to work this morning it happened every time I did what I described above. I have taken it to our local tire/suspension shop and they claim they could not reproduce the sound which does not surprise me. They did a full inspection and found nothing.
View 14 RepliesI've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
View 4 RepliesWhen I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
View 1 RepliesI have a 4 door 2005 Accent with ABS. I mainly drive in the city, and lately I noticed a squeaking noise that sounds like it's coming from the front right side (from inside the car); it is a constant noise. I pulled the brakes off both sides, the pads are fine, the rotors were a little rough (normal). Before I reinstalled everything I took some 80 grit emery cloth and roughed the pads and the rotors with it just in case there was some glazing.
The noise is still there and what concerns me more than the noise is the fact that the longer I drive the car the more gas I seem to need to apply to get the car to move.... not a huge amount but enough. Also, once I stop the car, there is a slight brake smell and the passenger side front tire area (brake) is crazy hot. Long story short; I would like to check to see if I have a stuck piston in the caliper, But I'm not 100% sure how to. Do I pull the pads off, push the piston in , watch how fast it goes in, and then compare it to the drivers' side? Or do I need to pull the caliper apart?
Within the last few days whenever I am backing up there tends to be a low hum noise coming from the passenger side tire when backing up and with no pressure on the brakes. The noise is not present at any time other then backing up so I am really unsure what could be causing it.
What could be causing this before I work on it. I know its not having any problem braking as well as it is also driving straight when the steering wheel is let go in drive.
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
I have a 99 Sentra 217500 miles 1.6 auto: I changed the trans fluid, and now have a bearing noise on the driver's side. The car shifted ok, but would stay locked up coming from drive to a stop.The fluid had been changed a couple times, before I got the car @195000, but was now very greyish looking, not burnt or black. I drained and then used the car to pump 8 quarts total (keeping it filled) The car runs and shifts fine, but now I have a 'tire like noise' driver's side. I jacked up each front wheel and ran the car in drive. the noise only came from the drivers side. I think it is a coincidence and am having the car checked on mon.
View 5 Replies2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.
There is no solenoid on the drivers door just an energising switch so a remote system, without modifications, will not open the drivers door.
To get it to work you would need to source & fit a solenoid into the drivers door, wire it, then wire in the remote locking box for the remote function - complicated for the average person and expensive otherwise.
Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
View 10 RepliesYesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
My driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
View 1 Replies2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
View 3 Replies2003 Hyundai Accent 4 door. Well its been raining here in Portland Oregon non stop and this morning I went to get in my car and smelled a mildew odor so I took out the drivers floor mat and the carpet was soak. Then I laid back the carpet and that grey spongy covering thats under the pedals was soaked to the bone like a sponge.
I did a test with a water by putting the hose on top of the roof of the accent and turning it on full bore and nothing leaked in the car. I sat in their for a good 5 minutes with the hose blaring down the windshield and door sides. I even took a jack and lifted the car up too see if there was any cracks or a rusty hole underneath but nothing. So Im completely stumped on this I do have A/C and the drain hose is clear since I have been using my defrosters and the A/C pump kicks on.
All my lights on the driver side don't work, replaced brake light and then nothing. Would it be a fuse? if so which one or wiring and how would I go about finding the fault.
View 1 Replies