Accent LC (2000-05) :: Gearbox Stiff And Jamming
Oct 4, 2014
I own an Accent 2000 model Manual Transmission. When the motor gets hot , the gear lever become increasingly hard to move and eventually locks. i.e., after say 10 minutes.
If I stop the car, turn the motor off, the gear lever moves freely. Start the car up again and the gears seem to work for a while.. then it locks up again.
This happened about 2 months ago.... seemed to fix up for a while.. now its back permanently. I changed the trans oil.. it made no difference..
The cable to the trans seems ok.. When the motor is 'off' it never jams. BUT i am not using the clutch then !! Could it be clutch.??
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I have a 2003 my04 accent, 1.6l, manual. I have 2 different noises coming from the engine bay. Iv'e got a video of one of them, you'll have to listen through headphones though to hear it properly, I'll post below. The noise will be echoed off the car shelter so bear with me. It sounds like a whine. You can hear it when I start revving it just after half way, and it is constant even when I am driving, becomes more noticeable as the RPM's climb.
The second noise I'm pretty sure is coming from the gearbox or surrounding areas. And it sounds like something grinding. It only happens if the car is straining I.e going up a hill in to high a gear. Or after I change gears and it sounds just before 2000RPM and fades out after 2200RPM . What could this be?
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l got a problem with my 01 hyundia accent I have no gears at all,the gear stick is floppy. I have looked at the linkage from the stick to the gear box it's all ok but as it enters the box it has no resistance. The clutch is about 1year old.
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My 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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My automatic gearbox lever lights went out, the ones that say P R N D 2 L no longer light up, im not sure if its a fuse or something but I can't find the fuse for it anyways.
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It's been a while, but my clutch has been really stiff for a while now. I don't think it was always this stiff. My mother has the same car and her clutch is really "light" and is very easy to press in. While mine is about as stiff as my friends corvette.... Is it just normal in that all clutches feel different or could something be wrong?
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Having issues with the driver's side seatbelt rolling over and jamming in the guide? This has been an ongoing problem with my 2005 Camry, and seems to be widespread as it is a major complaint on other websites. [URL] ....
I keep a small flathead screwdriver in the car to pry off the plastic door trim panel to untangle the belt.
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I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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is it possible that the car did not spin the starter due to lack of, or a small amount of oil in the automatic gearbox ??
Phaeton 3.0tdi 224KM 2004r. , Automatic.
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I took the car to the local VW workshop (in Spain) for a replacement of the ring, and they found the reason for the leak. There is a vibration on back of the gearbox which over time destroys the ring and gear oil starts to leak. Not much, but just a little - enough for a small wet spot on the garage floor.
No other visual broken items are found and the gearbox apparantly works fine. Except, when starting from stand still, acceleration, and making a turn, the gear box makes some strange noices and it is as the car makes a sharp jump forward.
The local VW dealer recommended a repair at [URL] -new-in-madrid at the cost of 4500 euros, all included with one year guarantee. They calculated 20 hours for taking the gearbox in and out of the car (included in the price).A new gearbox is 7000 euro plus the 20 hours of mechanical work so the repair sounds like a better option.
The Automatic said that if you have a 4x4 and change tires unevenly (that is just shift two of the tires at a time) the gearbox may be exposed for tensions that may make this particular problem happen.
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with the gearbox stick shifter and housing for it. This has a remote gear selector as the truck was a C.O.E. so gearbox was behind the cab. I have seen these gearboxes with a stick shift coming straight out of the top of the box, which is what I need but my gearbox case is different although the 6 bolt fixing for the gear selector looks the same. What I need is someone to crawl under their truck and get the 10 digit model number off the truck gearbox which has a stick shift so I can cross reference the part numbers to see if the stick shift will fit my box.
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Just wondering if there's been any incident where the coolant in the SC430 is leaked into the gearbox at the radiator. I mean, these cars do have the transmission fluid running through the radiator, right? I've read that this occurs a lot on LS430 and many Mercedes models.
Would it be a good preventive measure to replace the radiator anyway? Or, is it ok to wait till there're signs of such leakage (if it doesn't usually begin as a major leak)?
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Why the PRNDL light will go off within less than a year of ownership? Would there be a bulb inside the gearbox, I am considering going get it replaced , but would like some feedback
When I turn on my lights, my gearbox does not light up. I haven't noticed until now.
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I have just become a proud owner of a gs450h 2006. So far i love it. Just one thing i wanna clear up for peace of mind. It is a cvt gearbox and when i floor it there is a brief pause in power at 70mph ish. Then it flies full power the kw gauge goes all way but a lot faster than the acceleration previous to the flat spot. Its like it changes gear at 70 and hits a massive powerband but id like that to be instant and sooner.
Hybrid passed all tests last week at lexus.
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I have a 2006 Chevy 2500 with a leaking steering gearbox. It is leaking where the steering column goes into it. What do I have to do to repair this problem?
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Yesterday I found that the water tank is empty, and when I added some water I noticed that there a white foam on the surface of the water, it smells like oil. could it be leaking from engine or gearbox ??
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I just heard a dyno operator explain a dip in torque from 1500-2500 rpm as being that the auto box disengages due to excessive torque to prevent damage.
this is for a chipped passat B6 1.8TSI (I know guys in the US dont have this engine) but hardware nonetheless should be similar is there such a feature for the B6 autobox to disengage or pull power in order to protect itseld due to excessive torque?
2ndly, does a dyno even read accurately WOT from 1500-2500 rpm?
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I'm new member and recently have bought 2011 sonata YF. I feel a little knock in gearbox handle when I brake and stop the car ( in D mode), and knock again when i release brake pedal. This knock can't be heard and just feel by hand. is it normal or failure?
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Finally got my Auto Santa Fe on the road after buying at Auction and changing engine. If you drive reasonably gears change quietly but it you rev over 2k revs before you get to 5th gear there is a screeching noise (like a belt slipping) from the gearbox region of the car. Once in 5th gear or in Neutral there is no screech. Have it booked in with a gearbox specialist next week but have a 300 mile trip on Friday. Is there anything obvious I could have a look at before then?
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