Accent LC (2000-05) :: GS Will Not Start - No Instrument Panel Gauge Action On Crank
Sep 26, 2012
I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
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I was driving my vehicle and turned a corner and the vehicle completely died. No illuminated instrument panel, power windows, radio, turn indicators, HVAC not working. Turned ignition key off and back on and blank instrument panel no information. The vehicle does not crank.
All components which do not require the ignition key turned on work fine; IE headlights (low and high beams; they are bright), emergency flashers, power mirror, power seats, brake pedal adjust, door locks (remote and from the door panel), horn, and interior lights to name a few.
Is there a relay which the ignition switch activates to provide power for all components tied to the ignition switch? If so where is it located.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I have 2010 f350 and everything works while key is turned on. When you crank the truck I lose power to windows, radio, mirrors, blinkers and instrument panel. When I drive the truck and give it gas everything works. Let off the gas and I lose everything. Sometimes after about 20 minutes of hey driving it will stay on. Also when first starting the truck the gear selector won't let you out it in gear. After about 30 seconds it will go
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2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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Instrument panel on Altima shuts down or freezes up erratically? There is no conditions I have found when this happens consistently. Typically after leaving the car overnight in the drive next time around everything works properly. I have checked fuses in the car and under the hood. What causes this?
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A few weeks ago the dash panel brake light would light up when I made right turns. After the car finished turning and went straight forward the light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds, then flicker and finally go off. This would happen when my foot was not touching the brake pedal. Now the brake light comes on occasionally when the car is going straight forward and sometimes when I apply the brakes. I do not see any signs of bake fluid leakage. The brakes are working properly and show no signs of diminished effectiveness. What could be the problem? 2000 Ford Focus Se DOHC.....
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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How to remove the window cranks from the door panels on the 2010 Accent. I have reaad lots about other models and can't find anything on the 2010. I purchased the cranks removal tool but it don't appear to work at all. I drop by my dealer and that was like talking to the wall, they don't know how to remove the handle.
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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I have a 2014 Accent (standard) and I have been noticing a noise when ever the GDI pump is in action. Noise was much louder in winter as if a hard plastic piece was transmitting vibration, this is very annoying. Dealer's technician confirms its from GDI but tells me its normal, I do not remember earing that noise in the car I test drove before buying. This is the only downside to my new car but a big one for me.
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Recently my 2003 Hyundai Accent has lost illumination on all gauges. Oddly the clusters light up when I arm and disarm the alarm system. The fuses look good and this all began when I had to fix the stereo. At this point I am lost. I have a few ideas in mind that could be causing this behavior. The computer may be going out, a wire got pinched and cut the connection, or I just plainly shorted out something. I have a video showing the problem I am having and I'll have a link to my youtube video.
My Instrument Cluster won't Illuminate - YouTube ....
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I have a 77 Celica GT Liftback. The instrument panel bulbs are very dim, even with the dimmer turned all the way up. I replaced the clock bulb to see if it made a difference but it didn't.
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The small monitor between tac. and speedo. Everything is displayed except it is very dim.. How to correct this?
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I'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
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Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
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