Accent LC (2000-05) :: GLS Key Won't Turn - Steering Wheel Is Loose
Jan 20, 2016
Girlfriend went to start her car on a nice cold day, and said it wouldn't turn over. so after taking her to work, i tried to see what the issue was . . . and the key wont move. the steering wheel is loose, i used the transmission override to move the stick back and forth a few times. still no go.
Did the hammer tap on the key, and used electronics cleaner on the switch in case something was stuck.
Oddity was, the door ajar chimes come on without the key inserted. So am I chasing electrical gremlins or what? the car is a base model without keyless entry.
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I have a nice 2000 Durango 4x4 SLT, automatic. I have some problems.
1) The drivers door outside latch will not open the door, the inside latch works fine.
2) The shifter on the transfer case is loose, it appears that the drive was left in 2wd since I have been able to use it. But it will not shift?
3) The steering wheel feels like it has a lot of play in it, also feels like a knuckle is in it when I turn it. It sometimes slips on turns at speed?
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How the easiest and safely dismantle my steering wheels...
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My accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
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I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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I have that annoying squeal when I start my car and when I turn my steering wheel (also noticed I can't turn the wheel very well as it feels dodgy, as in the belt catches then lets go if that makes sense). Now once the car warms up it usually doesn't happen again but obviously I want to rectify this as my car draws enough attention at start up but this is getting ridiculous. I checked my power steering fluid and it's bad, brown and has some sediment so it needs changing for sure but here's my problem;
How do I check things to make sure I don't get ripped off at the mechanic? I'm sure a power steering flush and re-tightening of the belt will probably fix it as I've only but 40K on the belts since ikilledbarbie and I changed all of them out. Whay I don't want to have happen is go in and hear "oh you need to replace XYZ" when the problem really is only ABC if you catch my drift.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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I just bought this transmission from a reliable parts dealer. Should have about 50k miles on it. Looked really clean when I got it.
The guys who put in the tranny cracked a speed sensor, so I bought a new one and put that in. I dried off the sensors and screwed them into their spot on the tranny after removing the intake filter that was in the way.
Even with the new speed sensor the car is still doing the following:
1) Does not go into reverse until I've gone into drive for a couple seconds, pulling forward. Reverse does not work. However, when I unplug the speed sensor reverse works right away, but we still experience the following...
2) car goes from first to second gear to third gear smoothly, as it should. Seems really smooth like a car should shift! However... it won't go past 3rd gear and then it won't downshift! So, even after stopping and idling, I can't leave 3rd gear.
3) When I turn the car off, then turn it right back on, I can go through first, second, third gear again then... it stays in 3rd gear.
Another issue that has come to my attention since I got the car back, is the steering wheel shakes pretty hard while idling with no gas. While driving it seems smooth -- idling again it shakes heavily. what could they have damaged while putting in the tranny to cause this shaking?
So far as the funny tranny stuck in 3rd gear, it seems to me like it's a computer issue? But, what could be the cause? What tests can I do to determine the cause of this problem besides the ones I've run so far?
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I have a 2001 Accent with 108,000 miles, 60000 less on the engine. It has become very difficult to turn the wheel, especially when still. It eases up some when the car is moving. The fluid was a little low so added some but still hard to turn when full. Is the pump gone or is it something else?
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I have a 00 Suburban 1500 4wd and when I move the steering wheel the tires do not turn. I looked and a nut is missing from one of the pieces! Not sure what it is called!
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I just picked up a 1978 ranchero, and the steering wheel seems very loose. Lots of play in it.
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I think the yellow colored thing is a clip but it isn't latching onto anything and I try to force it up but it just moves back. Here's a pic. It's right below the ignition start button and is below the steering wheel column.
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Alright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
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My accent (2001, 1.6L, with 179k miles) has service engine soon light on. Brought it to autozone and they said the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I borrowed the socket to take out the O2 sensor. It's very difficult even with the tool, because the O2 sensor was stuck with a lot of rust. I used an extension bar to get it out finally, but now when i tried to put the new sensor in, I found the hole's thread is very loose. Tried very hard but can't get the new sensor in securely. It seems I had to replace the whole exhaust manifold. The manifold is very expensive(because it has a build in catalyst converter). I'm wondering is there a way to make the O2 sensor in secure without replacing the whole thing? if I had to replace the manifold then I probably will just get rid of this car.
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2000 Honda Civic DX, green, four doors, 91,000 miles. A few weeks ago I noticed that the steering wheel was loose when driving but only about 30% of the time--didn't seem to be related to whether the car was warmed up or time of day or speed, just that it happened when the car was moving. The steering wheel would have play when the wheels were pointed/driving straight and the looseness went away when turning. I brought it in to the mechanic and of course he couldn't get it to happen when he drove it. Replaced worn inner tie rods, did a power steering flush/replaced the power steering fluid and did a front end alignment. Drove fine for two weeks but then it started occurring again, this time even more loose/more play in the steering, still only when driving straight. Oh, just one time (so far) a few days ago it was loose when I was standing still at a stop light.
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I have a 2010 Elantra GLS with a loose steering wheel. When you hold the wheel, it can be moved about 1/2 inch up, down, left or right. The issue appears to be in the column, because the intermediate shaft joint under the dash does not move, i.e., no slop whatsoever from that point down. The front suspension is as tight as can be, the car just turned 40k. Im thinking maybe something with the tilt mechanism?
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I just drove a car I'm looking to buy and the steering wheel was pretty loose. Not jerky, just sloppy.
I can tell it needs an alignment, but what could I be looking at in order to tighten it up?
I've learned that front ends can get pricey pretty quick.
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So I have a loose wire to my steering wheel controls. They don't light up anymore and when I smack the back of the wheel, they will light momentarily. Also, 2 of the radio buttons work intermittently. How do I access them?
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my 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
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I have some big time slop in my steering wheel, and what started as a type of binding when turning sometimes, is now really sloppy - almost dangerous
Is this the intermediate steering shaft? I just want to be 100% sure that I get the right thing before I buy it, as it's a dealer only part.
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