Accent LC (2000-05) :: Front Fog Lights Not Working / Green Led Not Coming On When Switch Depressed
Apr 12, 2013
I own a 2001 Hyundai Accent. For some reason my front fogs lights have stopped working, i am suspecting the switch is dead because the green led does not come on when the switch is depressed, i have checked the fuse and all ok however on the fuse box/relay cover in the engine bay it says that there should be a relay (see attachment) but i don't have a relay there and never have had even when the lights worked, well at least i have never taken it out. Back to the switch, how to remove the switch from the panel so i can test the circuit with one of the other switches.
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My fog lights were working on second then all of a sudden both of them stopped working. And the switch on the inside isn't turning green when you pull out to turn them on. What the deal with that and how I can fix it. I just switched the bulbs today but they were working but just stopped.
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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I've been having a few problems with my 2000 hyundai accent recently. The biggest is the dashboard lights aren't working not the best thing if you have night classes. How I can make those lights come back?
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I have a 2003 accent and i no longer have interior lights or a door chime working..
I did have a electrician friend change out my hatch last week and pretty sure he shorted out the fuse. I can't seem to see what fuse it would be all seem good
From me checking around i am lead to belive the it could be (shunt connector, memory fuse, power connector, joint connector m31) multiple names for the same thing.
How would i check this? How is it removed?
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I have a 4 door 2005 Accent with ABS. I mainly drive in the city, and lately I noticed a squeaking noise that sounds like it's coming from the front right side (from inside the car); it is a constant noise. I pulled the brakes off both sides, the pads are fine, the rotors were a little rough (normal). Before I reinstalled everything I took some 80 grit emery cloth and roughed the pads and the rotors with it just in case there was some glazing.
The noise is still there and what concerns me more than the noise is the fact that the longer I drive the car the more gas I seem to need to apply to get the car to move.... not a huge amount but enough. Also, once I stop the car, there is a slight brake smell and the passenger side front tire area (brake) is crazy hot. Long story short; I would like to check to see if I have a stuck piston in the caliper, But I'm not 100% sure how to. Do I pull the pads off, push the piston in , watch how fast it goes in, and then compare it to the drivers' side? Or do I need to pull the caliper apart?
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
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RX450h. Just purchased used 2010 model and today with first hot weather discovered climate control not really working well in eco mode. After long search found the button which switched ECO mode off in multi information display BUT the green ECO word still kept displaying on Hybrid system Indicator. So now I am confused, do I still have ECO mode on or not? And how can i get that green ECO message of my hybrid meter?
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How to remove the switch panel. My car didn't come with any fog lights and I'd like to remove blank filler without scratching my dash?
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My passenger window switch has stopped working. At first it did not want to open and close using the main switch on the driver door . (2008 1.6 3 door hatch). Then it also stopped operating on the single switch by the passenger door. Luckily its in a closed position. Is there any possible fixes, bar having to buy a new switch, as its proving hard to locate. Mostly main switches for the sedans available.
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I can't seem to find the location of the neutral safety switch on my 2005 accent 5 speed manual. I removed the air filter box and looked all around the top, bottom, and sides of the tranny. I have the new part so I do know what it looks like.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I notice that my Electronic Parking brake doesnt seem to work anymore and I no longer have the little green light that illuminates where the parking brake switch is. Also, I now have a message on the dash that say check parking brake system have vehicle checked by dealer.
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX Automatic, and my ignition switch is completely unresponsive: when on accessory or run position nothing comes on.
I am also noticing that I can switch gears even with the key out and brake pedal not depressed.
I tried to check the function of the ignition switch, and found the following:1) It has one white wire with 3.5v2) When the switch is in Acc position, a black wire with white stripe also has 3.5V on it now3) WHen the switch is in On position, all the wires going into the Switch have 3.5V on them...
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I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
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If there is a fuse...or a switch that could have went bad ( and if fuse which fuse box )...
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I haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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2009 Accent 5 speed 66K miles. This is something which I recently noticed with the onset of winter. When I depress the clutch pedal, I have a very audible squeak. Think old door hinge squeak. So metal is rubbing against metal somewhere inside the bellhousing without enough lubrication.....not good. I pulled off the dust boot on the side of the bellhousing and tried my best to push moly grease around the clutch fork stud, hoping that was the origin. The noise went away for roughly a half a day but is back in full force....funny how cars do that.
Space seems EXTREMELY limited on lubricating the proper area. Or....is this a warning mechanism built into the clutch pressure plate assembly to warn of replacement soon? While I am asking these questions, what is a good time to look into replacing the clutch? The parts for the car seem relatively cheap, if I replace the clutch assembly, I may consider replacing the flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well as a whole system replace/refresh.
That aside, is there anyway to eliminate the squeaking without having to crack open the bell housing?
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