Accent LC (2000-05) :: Extremely Slow Acceleration When Changing Gears
Jan 5, 2016
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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I've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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I own a 2000 Jetta auto with 200k on it. I have the same problem. It wouldn't change gears till 4000 rpm i scanned it. And got the cods g38 and g68. So I changed both. It was working fine then again same thing it works then stop works. So scanned it again and got same codes changed them again worked fine then stopped working so I took it to vw and they told me same thing same sensors and the wire harness so I changed them again got the parts from VW this time. It was working then stopped. And when I turn on the car and drive my gear box display goes all black for at least 10 min driving then goes back to normal. But sill doesn't change gears. Now not even after 4000 rpm. Ps. When I do it manual 1st gear 2 and changes fine once I put it on drive doesn't not change gears.
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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own a 2005 Hyundai accent 1.6L engine. I replace the engine today. The previous engine had internal damage. The transmission I left alone. I didn't disconnect the wiring. I only removed the engine. The transmission worked flawless. When I turned on the car the engine sounds great and the transmission sshifted gears and the wheels were moving. The speedometer worked so then I turned the engine off and lowered the car down from the Jack stands and tired it shine but this time the transmission did not shift gears. I lifted the car back up and did still did not shift gears. The transmission does nothing. The checked the guild level and it's full. What can cause a transmission to suddenly stopped engaging gear?
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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What this may be. 2004 Accent Automatic. We just purchased recently for my daughters fist car. Today when leaving the house the car stays in first gear, you can move the shifter through the gears but it wont shift up. Reverse is fine. Checked the oil level in Neutral when hot and it was ok. Hooked up my code reader and there are no Codes. Car only has 85,000 KM on it.
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I have the opportunity of getting i believe a 2004 accent gt for next to nothing. It recently lost reverse and all gears aside from first. The codes it is triggering are p0734 p0732 and p0733. Prior to throwing the codes it moved back but wouldn't budge forward. With codes no reverse or any gear higher than first. Car has 160k miles I am pretty mechanical. Should I run from this "cheap" "gas saver" or pick it up? With all 3 codes could it be just that sensor?
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Just the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I have a 2000 Accent that I changed the clutch and CV Axles on and now the transmission seams to be stuck. When i got done replacing the axles and installing the brakes I spun the wheels while installing the nut to aline the cotter pin. Once I got the car down, serviced the gear oil, bled the clutch master. Went to drive the car and it wouldn't move .
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I recently bought a accent, changed the oil then upon starting it back up it just pours out white smoke from the exhaust. i might have put a little too much oil in, would that cause the issue? It didn't happen before the oil change either.
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
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