Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Will Idle For A Few Minutes And Then Cut Off
Jan 31, 2013
I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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My friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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I have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
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2004 Hyundai Accent has is misfiring, after warming up, only in idle. This only happens after about 30 seconds in idle. Could it not be getting enough gas? This being said I was getting misfire on 3 as well but that would happen all the time and cause the entire car to shake. This problem is now fixed and only #4 is causing me problems.
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2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
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I have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
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Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
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