I need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
View 3 RepliesCar just stopped accelerating on highway. It starts again after about 10 minutes. Also the wheel gets stiff when it stops accelerating. What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesMy friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
View 2 RepliesSometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
View 1 RepliesNoticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
Well I am not sure if i have trans problem or not. If I put the trans in drive and go through the gears when the RPM's get to about 2000 the truck almost stops accelerating, until you give it much more gas, this happens in every gear. but If you push the button to take it out of overdrive and drive like that it doesn't do it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 metro runs good but when accelerating over 70 when you let off engine shuts down for a few seconds then takes off again. Replaced fuel pump and filter to no avail. It must be a fuel problem no misfire.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent 1.6L and when I turn the wheels all the way too the right or all the way to the left the pulley stops spinning. Could this be that the pump is going bad or something else?
View 2 Replies2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
My 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
I have a 2005 accent with a 5 speed, it has about 80,000km on it.... mainly city driving. Lately, once the car is up to temp. as I pull away from a stop the car makes a loud noise and I really need to feather the clutch out. The noise continues after shifting into second gear ,but no other gears. Thus happens under normal acceleration. If I pull away extremely slow the noise isn't there. If I don't feather the clutch the car lurches like I'm just 'dumping' the clutch and driving like someone who is just learning to drive. Sometimes there is also a whining noise in second gear if I am accelerating at a normal pace. Where I should start looking? I am assuming it's the clutch due to the fact that it happens after everything warms up.
View 3 RepliesI have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
View 19 RepliesI've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
What happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
View 3 RepliesMy hyundai accent 2004 consumes fuel but does not bring out black smoke, what can i do?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
View 3 RepliesI recently inherited an s10 that works fine but has a very quirky condition. The engine will stop randomly with no warning while driving down the road after turning off the ignition, wait a minute or two, turn it back on and it works fine for a few more days or couple of weeks, but has been driving me crazy, and isn't very safe The check engine light is on and the code read a bad crank sensor, so I got that replaced, and it didn't fix the issue so the mechanic said that the next step would be to replace the ignition module with the ignition coils.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.