Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Runs Unstable At Idle Sometimes - Code P0180
Apr 29, 2013
I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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I received code P1404 on my 1999 Saturn shortly after the idle went unstable. The car ran great for a couple of weeks, then the idle went unstable again. The idle would go up and down for a couple of miles, then stabilized, but I got code P1404 again. The EGR I installed is new. What else would trigger P1404?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, GLS, 3 door, Standard trans, 1.6. The only factory option above base is A/C.
About a month and a half ago my engine was running hot, one day the temp was climbing and then just dropped like it had been doing for a few days. This car has never run hot before. The next morning before leaving for work, when it was cold, I removed the radiator cap to check the level and it was at the top and the reservoir was at the correct level. After that it never ran hot again. I had the dealer flush it and new cap and thermostat, no overheating problems.
Last week on the way home all of a sudden the engine started running at 6000 rpm, I thought it might be the 3rd party cruise I had install when I first got the car opening the throttle. Had it towed home and the wrecker driver was watching under the hood as I started it again. The throttle linkage remained in the closed position, the engine should be idling but it ran back up to 6000 rpm again. There was no movement in the linkage. I connected my OBD Scan Tool to check for any codes, there were none.
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Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
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Granddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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My sister-in-law just came home with a P2069 code. I can't seem to understand how to use the search feature here, every time I enter the spam code its invalid even when I am entering it correct...
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I just purchased a new 2014 accent . It's unstable on the highway. side to side movement. Do the accent steering can be set to sport mode?
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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Last weekend on my way home from work, I heard this small "thump" noise then a rattling noise started. It really sounds like spinning a marble in a plastic bottle.
I got the car checked and we got code 0734 (Gear 4 ratio incorrect). We think there might be a tooth missing on the gear, but the mechanic wasn't entirely sure, as he wasn't a transmission specialist.
Now, I fear this may cost me my first born child, and I might just end up buying a cheap car for the Winter and get rid of this one; the transmission repair costs are ridiculous.
I've been driving the car in the city (30-50 km/h at most), I'm trying to avoid the highway, I'm afraid I'll blow it, who knows.
It has an automatic transmission, with 125,000 km on it, 2003 make.
The noise only happens when the car is moving forward, not when idling/parked, not in reverse. I am very gentle with the car, no highway speeding, no sudden speeding. I did however do an oil change a little over a month ago, and read somewhere on here that if the wrong fluid was used during maintenance that it could cause problems. I will call the shop and ask them about it.
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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