Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Raises By Itself On Motion
Sep 23, 2011
Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
View 2 RepliesWhy does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
View 2 RepliesI know that I need to have the alignment done on my car - pulls to the right if steering wheel is straight. I am also getting a vibration/shaking when car is in motion. Also, when I slow down it slowly ricks back and forth, and the steering wheels moves with it. Exactly what have I done to this car? It also has 101,192 miles on it ....
View 3 RepliesMy car, a 00 accent 1.5 gs with about 87,000 miles, manual trans, feels like its bouncing or like the ground is uneven when its not. This happens when I'm driving. It accelerates normal but when I put it in third gear it has a bounce like motion. It even happens when I am coasting and actually in all gears. I know my shocks and maybe my springs are no good but I don't think that's the problem. I have no clue what it is. It was happening before but i have been noticing it more often. I wonder if its the axle on the left side due to a ripped cv boot.
View 6 RepliesI have a cold start problem with my camry. The engine has clocked 100k now. When ever i start the car in cold weather; it never starts for the first time. The second time when i start it, the engine stalls a bit and then the rpm raises upto 2. Also the rpm when the engine is cold remains less then 1.5.
View 11 RepliesMy 2012 Accent Blue is making a low pitched whistling sound when its in motion. I have an annoying problem with my car. While I'm driving the car whenever I pass 90 km/h a whistling noise are started in front of my car. Hyundai Service nor Hyundai Customer service come up with a solution. They say just go an another service an check it. I uploaded 2 videos :
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07 accent with transmission lurching.
As the auto trans heats up, the gears begin to get sticky. This creates a jerking motion as the engine downshifts while braking. It also happens at high speeds when attempting to downshift for acceleration.
Additionally, while shifting from park at hot temperatures, the transmission will take up to 15 seconds to engage into drive, and even more time (30-40 sec) to shift into reverse.
The car has recently (approx 6-8000 miles ago) had a complete transmission flush. The auto shop in town also suggested and did replace a sensor somewhere which supposedly had gone bad. But the problem persists...
I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 RepliesI just replaced pads and rotors on my 2000 Passat GLX. Everything went fine, i got done, pumped the pedal 10-15 times, took it for a test drive. When I depress the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor, the car pulls right, then left, and slowly stops. At this point, if I hit the brakes again, it feels normal.
I figured it just needed a few minutes, I drove it for about 45 minutes, and it never got any better. I have changed the brakes several times before and never seen anything like this before.
My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
Mine broke on the throttle body end, I think the cruise control motion caused the throttle cable to bind up as it pulled to accelerate probably over a long period of time. It is a 2000 Mountaineer V8 part is not obsolete from Ford other than a JY what other new sources are there? I was informed only 99-00 are the same from Dealer and have searched via Google. I already fixed it with new 1/8 steel cable and swedged ends, I want a new one just in case liner is gone south.
View 1 RepliesI recently became the owner of a 2001 accent with 73k on it. The clutch needed changing on it so after stripping all that out when I put it back together I noticed that the fan switched on for about 20-30 seconds after turning the engine off. I've also had to disconnect the maf because it was running very lumpy after everything went back in. I'm not worried about the maf its only a few mine job to change. I'm just wondering if it's normal for the fan to come on like that?
View 5 RepliesWhat may be wrong with my 2001 Accent? The engine has occasionally cut out in the past and the Engine Management light has come on, but the car has always restarted and the light gone out.
On the most recent occasion though, the engine would not re-start and when I turn the ignition key to the first position there is no Engine Management Light or ABS Light - I have normally seen these in the past when the ignition is on and they went out when the engine was started but now they just don't light up at all.
There is no power at the diagnostic plug, all fuses seem OK tested with a multimeter (unless there is another hidden away somewhere for the ecu?), all of the electrical earths/ grounds that I can see seem OK. Is it likely that the ecu has failed or may there be a simple fix.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, GLS, 3 door, Standard trans, 1.6. The only factory option above base is A/C.
About a month and a half ago my engine was running hot, one day the temp was climbing and then just dropped like it had been doing for a few days. This car has never run hot before. The next morning before leaving for work, when it was cold, I removed the radiator cap to check the level and it was at the top and the reservoir was at the correct level. After that it never ran hot again. I had the dealer flush it and new cap and thermostat, no overheating problems.
Last week on the way home all of a sudden the engine started running at 6000 rpm, I thought it might be the 3rd party cruise I had install when I first got the car opening the throttle. Had it towed home and the wrecker driver was watching under the hood as I started it again. The throttle linkage remained in the closed position, the engine should be idling but it ran back up to 6000 rpm again. There was no movement in the linkage. I connected my OBD Scan Tool to check for any codes, there were none.
My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
I bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
View 1 RepliesTiming belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 accent manual transmission. Last week I noticed it is to weak NO POWER. The engine is not responding, too slow..to go 60 km or 40 miles/hour I have to shift fast to 4 gear. My car is 200,000 and my mechanic told me, I have a bad clutch...
View 12 RepliesBeen having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?