Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Occasionally Cut Out
Jan 10, 2013
What may be wrong with my 2001 Accent? The engine has occasionally cut out in the past and the Engine Management light has come on, but the car has always restarted and the light gone out.
On the most recent occasion though, the engine would not re-start and when I turn the ignition key to the first position there is no Engine Management Light or ABS Light - I have normally seen these in the past when the ignition is on and they went out when the engine was started but now they just don't light up at all.
There is no power at the diagnostic plug, all fuses seem OK tested with a multimeter (unless there is another hidden away somewhere for the ecu?), all of the electrical earths/ grounds that I can see seem OK. Is it likely that the ecu has failed or may there be a simple fix.
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I got a 2002 accent 1.3 si, engine warning light comes on but doesn't seem to affect cars running, no misfires, no stalling, still good acceleration and mpg, occasional engine revving on its own, changed tps sensor and engine revving on its own was worse. Was told by hyundai mechanic to disconnect battery for 30 seconds and if light went out it was either faulty tps sensor or an intermittent non constant fault reading, light did go out for some time but is now back on.
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I have a 52 Reg Accent MVi and, occasionally when changing down into 1st gear, My gear stick sometimes doesn't want to go into place, or it will go into place but the car will still be in neutral.
Also, sometimes, when it feels like it hasn't quite gone in right, and i lift off the clutch, the car gets stuck somewhere in between gears and cant move, and i have to yank the gear stick (quite hard) back into neutral.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
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I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I recently became the owner of a 2001 accent with 73k on it. The clutch needed changing on it so after stripping all that out when I put it back together I noticed that the fan switched on for about 20-30 seconds after turning the engine off. I've also had to disconnect the maf because it was running very lumpy after everything went back in. I'm not worried about the maf its only a few mine job to change. I'm just wondering if it's normal for the fan to come on like that?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, GLS, 3 door, Standard trans, 1.6. The only factory option above base is A/C.
About a month and a half ago my engine was running hot, one day the temp was climbing and then just dropped like it had been doing for a few days. This car has never run hot before. The next morning before leaving for work, when it was cold, I removed the radiator cap to check the level and it was at the top and the reservoir was at the correct level. After that it never ran hot again. I had the dealer flush it and new cap and thermostat, no overheating problems.
Last week on the way home all of a sudden the engine started running at 6000 rpm, I thought it might be the 3rd party cruise I had install when I first got the car opening the throttle. Had it towed home and the wrecker driver was watching under the hood as I started it again. The throttle linkage remained in the closed position, the engine should be idling but it ran back up to 6000 rpm again. There was no movement in the linkage. I connected my OBD Scan Tool to check for any codes, there were none.
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Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
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My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
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I bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
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My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
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Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
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I have a 2001 accent manual transmission. Last week I noticed it is to weak NO POWER. The engine is not responding, too slow..to go 60 km or 40 miles/hour I have to shift fast to 4 gear. My car is 200,000 and my mechanic told me, I have a bad clutch...
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Been having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?
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My hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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