Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Light Blinks Before Cranking / Car Struggles With 1st Gear
Jun 2, 2016
I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
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2005 Accent has been essentially bug free until now.
Drove 3 hours, parked for 4 hours, then when to turn it on... cranked, no turn over. Tried again and the crank died. I figured, ok, no problem, battery getting long in the tooth, time for a new one.
A friend and I were able to push start it (5 speed manual), and yesterday I bought a new battery for it. No worries right?
Wrong. Same thing now. Cranking but no gas/spark/turn over. No check engine light or codes.
My next place I'm guessing I need to check is the fuel pump relay? Should I hear a click a few seconds after I turn the key to on? I believe I should, not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me, but right now there is none.
Relay in the fuse box? Do I need to check anything else first? Have multimeter.
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I think I might have a mod on my accent I just purchased used. The top brake light blinks a couple times when pressing the brake and then goes on solid. I have seen these in motorcycle and cars a few times. Is this something that came from the factory or is it a mod to the vehicle?
Also I noticed that the rear window sprayer shoots out windshield washer fluid about 20 ft out straight out the back of the vehicle. I guess its an anti tail gater mod.
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I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
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So I got around and decided to fix my transmission my self. Any way I got the code PO734 from my CE light which is gear 4 incorrect ratio. So some people say its the solenoids that cause this issue, some say its the 4th gear clutch...
So, Is it the solenoid or it could be the clutch itself? Ive removed the 4th gear from my transmission today and it looks intact. No weird damage or physical like damage on it... I just don't know which to do since solenoid job i can do myself which will be about 5 hours minimum....
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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I'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 190,000 miles. When I turn on the a/c after about 10 minutes the drive light blinks and the speedometer stops working and the odometer stop working also. So I have been unhooking the battery and it resets everything and the light works as well as the speedometer and odometer. I have about 2,000 miles on a new cylinder head and timing belt water pump, and battery and cables, which was quite expensive and I am wondering if its worth even fixing but there is absolutely no rust and I love the vehicle 28 mpg mini van can't beat.
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My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
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The car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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I just bought a 2000 Ranger. I bought it at company auction for cheap because it wouldn't start. The battery was dead when I got to it. I put a brand new battery in it since it has 155,000 miles. When you turn the key to the on position, the theft light starts blinking rapidly. It will continue to do so for about 45 seconds if you leave the key on; then it will go out. However, if you turn the key to start, all you hear is relays clicking. The engine doesn't crank at all. I jumped the starter relay and the engine turns over. I have the factory manuals for wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.
The theft system relies on trouble codes to point you in the right direction for testing. I borrowed an Actron code reader (like you get at Autozone) and it says there are no codes. I'm wondering, though, if it only reads the SAE standard codes from any vehicle and not the manufacturer specific codes like the theft system. I have gone through a few of the diagnostic procedures with a multimeter, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack without the codes. So far everything I've checked has come back ok. Any common issues this might be related to? BTW, I've gotten bits and pieces of info about this truck from the guys who drove it. Apparently, it just wouldn't start one day and was parked for the next several months until I bought it.
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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