Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Dies, No Fault Codes Appeared
Mar 20, 2015
Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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We have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
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I have a 2002 Prius that needs work. The red triangle, PS, and check engine light are all on. It has these codes:
P3100 - 175 (HV ECU internal error. Motor Inverter Current Sensor Malfunction)
p3125 - 287 (Motor Inverter Finv. Inverter Internal Short)
c1259 (HV System Regenerative Malfunction)
I suspect the inverter or even worse the MG2 has burnt windings.
BTW the "infamous" inverter pump seems to be working. I can hear it and see the fluid in the reservoir move.
I suspect it is more a symptom than a problem and will disappear when the real problem is fixed.
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I was just driving and the engine check light appeared. The screen says Emission workshop. its a 2001 B5 passat V6 Manual. I used a code reader and it read P1120 and P0154. Are these codes serious? Can I still drive around? What should I do?
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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I found the fault codes, I need the steps to fix them.
P0760 - Shift Solenoid,
CP0755 - Shift Solenoid
BP0340 - Camshaft piston sensor "A" Circuit
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
I'd like to think it's as easy as replacing the sensors, but it never is.
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Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
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Picked up my rx300 on Monday. Got engine and vsc lights on. Tried battery off to reset. Worked for a day then back. Got a code reader and reset. Found a p00016 code? Crankshaft potion/camshaft position bank 1 sensor A correlation ?
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I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
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Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
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Alright just had this light pop up on my 01 passat,
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I picked up a 2007 GS350 AWD with a little under 60K miles a few weeks ago, I've been absolutely loving the car, but noticed the check engine light/check VSC came on this morning on a cold start; it also sounded a bit rough on idle. I have an Android to bluetooth OBDII scan tool for my other cars so I pulled the codes, and it's showing P0300, P1600, P1700, and P1800.
Searched the forums and nothing comes up for those specific codes. But the first couple of things that came up as culprits for check VSC were the gas cap and brake fluid; went out and bought an OEM gas cap and made sure the brake fluid was topped off this afternoon. I reset the faults and drove the car around, but the lights came back on about 15 miles later. It drives and shifts fine, but I still think it's a bit noisy at idle.
A little background on the car: The previous owner only drove it on weekends and for events here and there, hence the relatively low mileage. The car was sitting in his garage for almost a year before I bought it, he finally got rid of it because he wasn't using it. I grabbed it despite a higher asking price because of the mileage and how clean it looked, but now I'm a bit worried. Is this bad gas? Should I flush all of the fluids? MAF or other sensors? I'm a bit lost.
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
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First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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