Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Only Runs At 6000 RPM
Aug 2, 2014
I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, GLS, 3 door, Standard trans, 1.6. The only factory option above base is A/C.
About a month and a half ago my engine was running hot, one day the temp was climbing and then just dropped like it had been doing for a few days. This car has never run hot before. The next morning before leaving for work, when it was cold, I removed the radiator cap to check the level and it was at the top and the reservoir was at the correct level. After that it never ran hot again. I had the dealer flush it and new cap and thermostat, no overheating problems.
Last week on the way home all of a sudden the engine started running at 6000 rpm, I thought it might be the 3rd party cruise I had install when I first got the car opening the throttle. Had it towed home and the wrecker driver was watching under the hood as I started it again. The throttle linkage remained in the closed position, the engine should be idling but it ran back up to 6000 rpm again. There was no movement in the linkage. I connected my OBD Scan Tool to check for any codes, there were none.
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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I started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
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Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I recently became the owner of a 2001 accent with 73k on it. The clutch needed changing on it so after stripping all that out when I put it back together I noticed that the fan switched on for about 20-30 seconds after turning the engine off. I've also had to disconnect the maf because it was running very lumpy after everything went back in. I'm not worried about the maf its only a few mine job to change. I'm just wondering if it's normal for the fan to come on like that?
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What may be wrong with my 2001 Accent? The engine has occasionally cut out in the past and the Engine Management light has come on, but the car has always restarted and the light gone out.
On the most recent occasion though, the engine would not re-start and when I turn the ignition key to the first position there is no Engine Management Light or ABS Light - I have normally seen these in the past when the ignition is on and they went out when the engine was started but now they just don't light up at all.
There is no power at the diagnostic plug, all fuses seem OK tested with a multimeter (unless there is another hidden away somewhere for the ecu?), all of the electrical earths/ grounds that I can see seem OK. Is it likely that the ecu has failed or may there be a simple fix.
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Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
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My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
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I bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
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My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
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Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
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I have a 2001 accent manual transmission. Last week I noticed it is to weak NO POWER. The engine is not responding, too slow..to go 60 km or 40 miles/hour I have to shift fast to 4 gear. My car is 200,000 and my mechanic told me, I have a bad clutch...
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On my way to work today i notice something unusual. in first gear when i punch it the engine stops or feels like it cuts off at 6000rpm however in any other gear it runs fine and when i slowly go on it in first gear it runs normal.
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Been having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?
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My hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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