When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
View 21 RepliesMy hyundai accent 2005 is not starting at all. The battery is charged but the engine is not starting when i try to key the ignition. I had keyyed in continuously around 20 to 30 times but it just doesnt start. When i try to key in fully, the engine makes a sound and chokes.
I was told by someone that my spark plugs in the vehicle were wrong i.e. the genuine spark plugs were for hyundai elantra and not hyundai accent. the spark plugs were in vehicle for around 2 months. Can wrong spark plugs cause vehicle starting problems?
o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
Recently I've had problems with my DRL (Day time Running Lights) Control Module. When I start the car, the DRL starts to make a loud buzzing sound. When I turn on my High Beams, it stops making the noise. It sounds like there's a relay that Isn't working like its supposed to be. So, I've thought of replacing it, but I`m not sure if its the DRL that's defective or just a wiring problem...
View 1 RepliesI've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
View 3 RepliesOur 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
View 1 RepliesUnlike the full-size Prius I used to have, the c seems to have a speaker somewhere under the hood which makes a buzzing/grinding noise when the car is powered by battery rather than by the engine. Is there a relatively simple way to disable this? I miss 'stealth mode' actually being stealthy. Possible to disable the EV mode 'growl'?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Mazda Protoge. I recently had the air conditioning fixed and primarily afterwards (although it could have been quiet before), when I accelerate or perhaps when it is thinking about shifting gears, I hear a strange buzzing sound, like a fan is hitting a bit of metal or something. It isn't too severe, but it sounds like it might be getting a little worse. Not louder, just more often. Belt? Two things touching? Should I bring my car, or is this just growing pains?
View 3 RepliesMy friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
View 3 RepliesI'm completely lost. My car won't start. It will turn over but not get a spark. I replaced the plugs and the camshaft position sensor and still having issues. I didn't change the wires when I did the plugs. Would that cause the problem to persist?
View 29 RepliesI've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
I'm seeing the following symptoms in my 2001 Accent 1.6L:
1. Check Engine Light on;
2. Certain electrical functions occasionally surge. For example, headlights and dash lights will become noticeably brighter for a few seconds, and the heater fan will blow harder. The surges last for about 3 seconds, then stop. Surges happen randomly, sometimes four or five times during a 30 minute drive, sometimes not at all in an hour.
3. The speedo/tacho lights have been cutting in and out randomly for longer than this, and this does not happen at the same time as the surges above.
4. Recently, the surges became more frequent and the Air Bag light started going on, then off. Now it is permanently on.
5. The battery has leaked fluid out from the fill caps, a good few ounces of fluid.
6. There are no blown fuses.
7. The Battery is 6 months old.
8. The alternator is 6 months old, and is the third one after two previous ones failed; the original was replaced 3 years ago, and the replacement failed 2.5 years later.
9. A fried lead to the starting motor was found when the alternator was first replaced, and was repaired. Related?
After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
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