Accent LC (2000-05) :: Drum Brake Adjuster Not Functioning
Nov 10, 2014
The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
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I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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I bought my accent in 2006 and it came with rear drum brakes and I want to know if it is possible to switch to rear disc brakes. I know that newer accents have all disc brakes so maybe it wont be that hard, but what do I need? I dont have abs. I asked the dealer like a year ago and they told me they wont do it. I have seen this conversion before in other cars that did not have rear disc brakes in newer versions either.
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
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My keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
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This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
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i have a 1966 pontiac catalina and i am replacing most of the brake components including the drums, which a car of this vintage has at the front also. the new drums don't include hubs, so i will have to swap the old hubs to the new drums. do i have to go to the machine shop to have them press these apart?
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99 Civic drum brake problem I was trying to replace the brake shoes on my 99 civic LX and having a hard time getting the drum off. It was very rusty so I had to resort to using two 8mm bolts. I started driving them in a little at a time and heard a couple of pops. I though this was just the drum coming loose, but after it came loose I still couldn't pull it off and there were two very corroded broken pins on the back side of the back plate. This isn't normal is it? Now I'm wondering should I keep trying to pull off the drum? Or is it possible that the shoes had rusted to the inside of the drum and when I drove the 8mm bolts in I was pulling on the shoes themselves, or something else inside, as well as the drum? If something has gone wrong should I keep trying to get the drum off to address the problem or should I just put it back together and take it to a professional?
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I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
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Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
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Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
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So I'm in the process of doing a rear brake job on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Drum brakes. And (shocker - especially for a northern car that never had the job done before) the drum won't come off. I've spent two days with a propane blowtorch, PB Blaster, and a 3lb hammer. No dice. It won't even budge.
So now I'm thinking about taking an angle grinder to the drum and just replacing both (probably necessary, as I'm sure it's in terrible shape). I'm really at my last option here.
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Just need to know how common this brake adjusting lever is? Awhile back I rebuilt my whole brake system and for some unknown reason the DS rear drum brake wants to keep over adjusting. Checked and double checked everything but can't see what would be causing it.
The fix has been to pull the wheel and drum and back off the adjuster but that's getting old. If I had more time and enthusiasm, I'd switch the shoes and hardware side to side to see if the problem follows the hardware. My solution for now is go with manual adjustment and to disable the DS adjuster by cutting off the end of the lever.
Before I hack up a lever I'd like to have a back up in case there is any problem. Not sure if the junkyard will have what I'm looking for and don't see the correct style lever on Rockauto or at my local parts places. My luck is to cut up a part that's hard to find.
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I have a 2010 Accent GLS with 96,000 miles. Up to now I have only needed to do regular maintenance (which I do myself usually ) and had no major issues other than the sway bar drop link problem which I found the solution to on this forum. And self destructing spark plugs (on 3 separate occasions).
The other day while driving, the car surged once like it was running out of fuel. Then the tachometer stopped functioning. And if I floored the accelerator to cause a downshift I would lose power and the car would surge until I let up on the accelerator and the car would up shift. The CEL came on and I had the code read. It was P0339. So I replace the crankshaft sensor and everything went back to normal and the CEL went off. Until 2 days later...
Today the CEL came back on. I had no issues while driving as far as I could tell. I had the code read again and it came up as P0336, P0300, P0302, and P0303. The odd thing is I have no starting or running issues. So I'm really not sure what is going on here.
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Worthless Chilton's manual went in trash. I don't have a working PC and Im unable to find a diagram for the rear brake drum of my 2005 camry.
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Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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I have a 2000 CR-V with rear drum brakes that make quite a bit of noise. When I press the brake pedal, they make a noise like the shoes are grinding on something other than the drum itself. Also, when I press the pedal at the right amount of pressure at the right speed, I get a loud high pitched squeal as if there's a metal tab rubbing on the drum. I did this brake job with my dad about 6,000 miles ago (154xxx miles now) including the front pads. We did everything right and bled the brakes VERY thoroughly.
We used the same drums as before (however, we replaced the front disc rotors) and everything is how it should be. I even adjusted the shoes' pressure on the drum a bit to see if it would stop. Also, the squeal noise seems to be worse when I haven't driven the car for about 2 hours or in the morning when it's colder and the brakes haven't been used in several hours. What's causing these noises?
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My brake lights are always on. When i turn my lights on the brake lights are on as if i am pressing the brakes. Very annoying for people behind me obviously, especially at night. If my lights are turned off and i press the brakes all the dash lights come on.. depress the brakes they go off. I've tried changing the brake switch above the pedal.. changed fuses.. can't figure it out.
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I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
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