Accent LC (2000-05) :: Distinct Rattling When The Temp Gauge Pegged
Jul 28, 2010
I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3
I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.
after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.
should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?
I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
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So I have an 88 k1500 with the 350 that the previous owner removed and rebuilt... Didn't hook a lot of stuff back up etc... It's like a puzzle. It runs good for the most part but the oil pressure gauge in the cab pegs out when it's running. I've heard 1989 and older 350 engines have 2 oil pressure switches/sending units. I know about the one up by the distributor. But can't seem to locate the other one. Also what does the one by the distributor control? And what does the other one control?
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95 jeep cherokee. My oil pressure gauge sometimes jumps up to 80lbs or bobs between 40 and 80lbs. Could this be anything other than sensor or gauge itself?
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Yesterday my fuel gauge stopped working it is pegged all the way to the left. I filled up the truck no change. Got home and my garage door opener would not work and when sitting in car the map lights wont come on, the overhead lights work when you open the door. Cannot find any reference to what fuse any those items are connected to. is there a fuse for the fuel gauge?
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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Boost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
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I just picked up a 20th and it seems when it's running and parked i get this very distinct rattling noise from somewhere in my engine bay. I go to put the clutch down and it stops, as soon as i lay off the clutch it comes back (almost humming) could it maybe be the trans?
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In my 2000 V6 Passat...I noticed that my temp gauge sporadically works...more often not. Is there a fuse or something that controls it?
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My climatronic has been goofy since I bought my 2000 v6 4mo. In the winter my heat never got really hot and now in the summer my A/C work sporadically. I had the thermostat changed along with the full timing belt service. I'm hoping I'll get full heat come september. My A/C, however works less and less often. The tech who did the timing belt change etc. said that there was a lot of pressure at the condenser, but that he thought a flap may have been stuck. he checked those and they are fine. The last two things he said should be checked are the external temp gauge(which is way off, reads 22'F when its like 85 out) or possibly I need a new climatronic head unit.
My questions are esentially these; Does the climatronic use the outside temp gauge to determine cabin temp? Do head units fail often? Are there temp sensors in the cabin other than those built into the climatronic head unit?
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Today was drive my x 2000 v10 limited 4x4 114k miles). It was 90 degrees Out and was driving in light traffic going 40 and noticed my temp gauge almost up to h then dropped fast. So shut the ac off and it continue to rise and drop fast I went few more miles to where I was going checked everything could see no problems it sat for about 30mins then left on my drive back home 36 miles and had ac on and no problems stayed where it normally is. I am thinking of just replacing the belt cause I never have. No weeping from water pump. Or any smell.
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I have a 2000 monte carlo ss. A few months ago the check engine light came on, the temp gauge stopped working, and after shutting the car off you can hear the fan running for about 10-15mins after i shut it off. I assumed it was the thermostat, so that was the first thing i changed. For the first few weeks everything seemed fine. No check engine light, temp gauge worked...then today suddenly it all started happening again. What could be causing it if the thermostat has already been changed? what should i try next?
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This is my 2000 passat V6. 87k miles. Over all I love the car. It is starting to make a groaning noise in the front suspension when I go over bumps. Seems to only happen when it's about 40 degrees or warmer out side. It's kinda loud. Smooth roads it's nice and quite. But even little bumps make it happen.
2nd. The temp Gauge on the instrument panel only works every once and a while. I like the car. I can pull almost 31 mpg out on the high way. Needs some better suspension. Buts pretty damn solid for 87k miles. My jette around this time frame was crap compared to this.
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Have a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
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I have got a hyundai accent and I was getting a really annoying rattling sound from the boot i have been looking every where to find it and today i have sust it out if you open your boot up and just drive it round the block and it does not rattle then its probably the same problem that i had its the catch that the boot locks on to they must of been a bit of a gap to it and the metal was rattling together on the clip and the lock all u have to do to fix the problem is open your boot up then on clip on the car that the boot locks on to simple apply some installation tape around it so its pretty thick but not to much close your boot and problem solved it should be ok mine is fine now back to silence again now instead of a annoying rattle when driving.
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I have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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Recently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
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