Accent LC (2000-05) :: Died When Going To Takeoff From Stop Sign Now Fires Up But Stalls
Jul 20, 2013
I have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
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So on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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Just had the timing belt done and water pump installed last week and just now noticed this oil leak. I can't figure out where it would be coming from . 10 seconds after I fired up the car it starts coming out.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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Car just died and wont start. Have checked the following..
fuel (unplugged hose at rail and no fuel with key on, only while cranking. also pulled rail off and all are spraying fuel)
spark ( all plugs are sparking, but are wet from fuel)
compression ( all had 190-210 psi)
timing belt is still in time.
Car doesn't even try to start with all of these. It does back fire out exhaust though when trying.
Also the one of the ecu fuses was blown( thought for sure that was the problem) but made no difference. What to check next. Possible ecu is bad??
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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I have a 2004 Accent. When driving on the interstate yesterday, I turned the turn signal on and my car died for a moment. After I parked it, it would not start. It did not turn over. Took the battery out to get checked. It was good. Put back in and then the car started. Drove home. The radio and clock would flicker intermittently but made it home. Today it will not start at all. Nothing comes on.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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I have an automatic 2000 Accent.. It stalls after a short distance. I changed the wires, spark plugs, and today I changed the fuel filter and put some injector cleaner but no change.. right after the filter change, it seemed to be OK but I drove about 10 minutes on highway and it stalled again.
If I wait about 10 minutes it starts again but not for long.. According to this, what else can it be?
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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