Accent LC (2000-05) :: Code P1128 - Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean
Aug 11, 2010
I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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I got a P0430 code. My fuel trims are over 20% on both banks. A few days back I got a P0174 code but after disconnecting the battery it cleared and hasn't come back. Are these codes related in any way?
I'm a bit confused because I removed both cats and put O2 spacers in on both sides. I never get a P0420 code. Is one of the spacers not working correctly? I sent Toyota an email about the 430 code and they want to know which of the cats were removed - front or back. I didn't even there were front AND back ones! I thought there were just 2 side by side.
When I analyze the O2 readings on Torque they look pretty similar for both banks although I admit I'm not the best person to judge. Both rear O2 sensors are fairly new.
Unfortunately living in the middle of Africa I can't get hold of a smoke machine. I'd love to look for a vacuum leak, as from what I've read about the subject this might well be the cause of my problems.
One mechanic wants to put a new fuel pump in but I'd like to postpone that because it's a pricey item.
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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I just got this 2008 santa fe a month ago from the dealer with 80.000 miles , and then yesterday the check engine light came on, i took it to auto zone and the put the computer and this 2 codes came up:
P2187
Fuel trim system lean at idle
explanation
the average long term fuel trim values at idle are more than 30% for 10 seconds
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- failed MAF sensor
- large vacuum leak
- cylinder misfire due to ignition system failure
P2189
System too lean at idle bank 2
explanation
failed MAF
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- vacuum leak on engine
- failed HO2S ( heated oxygen sensor-bank2 )
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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Headers will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
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Had to store prius for 7 or 8 months? Does the hybrid battery need to be disconnected?
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I have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
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Do you think it would shorten the life of the hybrid battery if I make a habit of really trying to EV in the last mile of arriving home?
Tonight, I accelerated quite slow after the last stop to stay on battery, but I noticed the battery bars got down to 2.
Got to wondering, if I do this a lot, might it shorten the traction battery life such that it fails at 11 yrs, for example, instead of 14 years?
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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Here goes, I just took ownership in the last month of a Hyundai Accent GS(2000). Car's been going great, but I have now found an annoying issue with a vibration coming through the dash. When I'm accelerating in all gears (and esp up hill when the car is under pressure), a Vibration starts in the dash and stays until I am roughly over 3000 revs. I'm in Ireland, so the car is Right Hand Drive. The Vibration sounds like it is coming from behind the speedo clocks near to windscreen.
So far, I have removed the Center Console and Stereo and the Vibration stays there. I've reached in behind the console and cant find any vibration there. I have also driven with the speedo clocks removed and putting my hand into the space trying to find the vibration.....but no joy.
The vibration itself sounds like a plastic trim in the dash (or behind the dash), but it has my stomped! Can it be something in the engine causing it? Engine ticks over fine, not lumpy in anyway.
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1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
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I have a 2000 Ranger, with a 4.0 V6, 4X4, with 175,000 miles and it still runs great except the check engine light is on and it is saying that both banks are lean. I put in new plugs, all 3 O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF and checked for vacuum leaks, all to no avail...
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We have a 2003 Passat 1.8t. Had the Check engine Light come on. Went down to AutoZone and hookeded up the OBDII reader. Came up with P0171, Fuel System for Bank 1 was too lean. Probable causes:
1. Fuel Pressure of MAF (If Bank 1 & Bank 2 set codes together)
2. O2 Sensor
3. Ignition Misfire
4. Fuel Injector Problem
Car has 60K - has always run well. Wife says she thinks it's running a bit sluggish. I rarely drive the car, but I think she's right. Car is not missing or running rough.
I cleared the code & started the engine; Check Engine Light is off; then looked at the codes and I find a P0171 (Pending). She tells me that the light has been on before & then gone away. So I guess it clears itself, but eventually comes back.
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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