Accent LC (2000-05) :: Car Scavenges And Suffocates / OBD Not Working
Nov 17, 2014
My car is a 2004 Accent hatch, 1.6L manual.
I had a no-start on Friday morning, and discovered that the fuel pump had died. I tested it on its own, and it has not coming on. The relay was operational, and I had power at the pump, so I replaced the pump. The pump came on and the car started quickly and sounded perfect for about 3 seconds. Then it began fighting to stay alive, and finally starving out. It is acting very rich, belches some grey smoke, sounds like unburnt fuel is being exhausted. It stalls pretty hard, and the CEL comes on.
I connected my WiFi OBDii scanner and had a bummer of a time getting it to communicate with my iPhone, even though it has in the past. Finally got Dashcommand (app) to tell me: "Failed to read emissions monitor status. OBD-II communication error." After some excessive profanity, I connected an Innova scanner that has also worked on this car in the past. The scanner gets power, but never reads a code. The 'link' light flashes sporadically, and fails to read anything.
It's as if the initial start up phase is peachy, but it won't transition to normal operation. I assumed vacuum leak or purge valve nonsense, but I can't find anything disconnected or obviously amiss. Other than that, the fuel rail pressurizes, and the car will start. Giving throttle works as normal in the first 3 seconds of startup, but when it tries to transition, the throttle responds in a bizarre, delayed manner, and then makes it bog and die quicker than letting it suffocate on its own. Whatever happened took my original fuel pump with it, and it won't communicate via the OBD port at all.
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GF recently purchased an 04 accent, 4 door auto, with power windows and locks and one thing that's not working is it's horn. I found the fuse box on the drivers side kick panel, was not able to find a fuse that controls the horn. Is there one that's shared with other units or something else I need to look into ?
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I've been having a few problems with my 2000 hyundai accent recently. The biggest is the dashboard lights aren't working not the best thing if you have night classes. How I can make those lights come back?
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Accent, base model. My speedometer isn't working at all. I have tested the speedometer motor in the instrument cluster. I have tried replacing the transmission speed sensors - both input and output. The speedometer still isn't working. What am I missing?
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So I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
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2001 hyundai accent, HARD TO START. I have to start the car almost 3 times plus hit the gas pedal to get it working. I already replace battery, starter, spark plugs, spark plug wires and air filter.
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I'm new and just read a thread from 2008 talking about malfunctioning overdrive. My overdrive has stopped working. It was intermittent for a while and now won't come on. A recommendation was made to replace the transmission sensor cable. How do I find/access the sensor cable for my transmission? Is there a website that shows pictures and gives instructions.
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I just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
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The Speedometer is not working, it always stays on ZERO, and also the mileage are not running, so my car is not accumulating miles.
I already change the Speed Sensor (VSS), and the Transmission Speed Sensor. (Attach Files for References).
What can be wrong? Maybe the Speedometer Instrument Cluster? My car is a Hyundai Accent 2003 Auto Transmission.
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I have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
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Since I purchased my Accent 2-3 years ago my horn hasn't worked properly. When i press in on the steering wheel (with the car off) I can hear a click noise from the engine, indicating to me that the button in the wheel isn't the culprit. So if the button in the wheel is sending a signal, but the horn only works 1 in 50 times, what might be the issue i could try? I already looked at the horn, and seems to be plugged in firmly. Not sure where else to go from here.
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Went to Advanced Auto to get the battery tested since it takes a few cranks for the engine to start. I thought it was the battery but after testing the battery they think maybe its the starter because the battery and alternator shows that its perfect.
I will also be taking the car to get the timing belt and drive belt replaced and the spark plugs and wires. I just want to know if you all think its the starter or should i check anything else.
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On my Accent I'm having problems with the speedometer. Speedometer stopped working with the odometer as well. My temp gauge and gas gauge work fine. Check engine light came on, gave code p0501 which is the speed sensor. Just had Firestone replace it but it didn't fix the problem.
He gave me two conflicting things. He said that when he span the gears at the end of the cable there was nothing going on at the speedometer.
But then he said that the cable wasn't making contact with whatever it needs to in the transmission. So he said it was something in the transmission.
My problem with that is, if it was something in the transmission, shouldn't the speedometer have moved when he span the end of the cable with his hand? What else could it be?
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So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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My driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
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I have a 2003 accent and i no longer have interior lights or a door chime working..
I did have a electrician friend change out my hatch last week and pretty sure he shorted out the fuse. I can't seem to see what fuse it would be all seem good
From me checking around i am lead to belive the it could be (shunt connector, memory fuse, power connector, joint connector m31) multiple names for the same thing.
How would i check this? How is it removed?
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Sons 03 accent tachometer stopped working. It now reads zero..... All other gauges fine as well as lights. Question is , is there a sensor that controls it that may be bad??
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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On my way home the speedometer stopped working and the air bag light came on. The odometer is still tracking distance and one other odd thing, the radio volume goes out as soon as the clutch is released. Tried a scanner and there are no codes.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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