Accent LC (2000-05) :: Car Is Turning Over But Won't Start - Immobilizer Fault
Jun 29, 2014
Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
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My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
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I have had the keys recoded 9 days ago and two days ago they started playing up again, today I phoned the mob I paid $150 to recode my keys and they're going to look at it again (for a small fee) despite it their work being faulty, is there anything else that could be causing this? It will sometimes take 20+ turns of my key before it registers.
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2004 Hyundai Accent
- Car won't start ...
- Remote key unlocks the car fine
- When put the key in the ignition and turn 'on' the little key indicator on the cluster doesn't come on.
- Left overnight and tried again in the morning, key indicator come on and then disappeared and wasn't able to start car.
- Key indicator now won't come on.
I spoke to mechanic and he said replace the immobilizer control module and reprogram key..
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my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
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took my car to the dealer to get a key programmed. Its a 2006 passat 2.0t 6speed auto. Anyway, they couldn't get the key to read and now I have a fault on my dash. "Immobilizer adjustment fault". How do I get rid of it?
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
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I have a 00 1.8t that won't start...
It gives me P1517 fault code and is the only code I'm getting. Replaced starter. I've looked all over and find very little information about this. Some place I read about said relay 377 is the main electrical relay but I can't find where it is.
Is there a missing relay next to 370?
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Had no problems until a month ago the car just stopped in the middle of driving it. It hasn't turned back on since. It cranks and sounds great, just won't turn over.
Here's everything we've changed so far:
spark plugs
ignition coils
fuel filter
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
crank shaft sensor
added gas
If there's something we're missing.
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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The wife's accent started hesitating when turning over to start. Like turn the key, engine will turn 1/4 turn, then nothing for a second or 2 ( without releasing the key) and then crank and start fine.
Checked connections at the battery, cleaned 'em. No CEL on.
I had a ignition cylinder freeze last winter, when my wife dropped her key in the snow and put it in with water on it. Had to heat the cylinder with a small lighter-style blowtorch and put low temp graphite in there.
Did I maybe melt something in there?? Something else??
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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I have a 2001 Prius and my wife has a 2001 Highlander. I only have 1 master key remaining for the Prius, and both cars use the same transponder type. I had a plain (metal, no transponder) copy made for the Prius, and it turns all the locks just fine. I also followed the master key programming steps with the metal non-transponder key in the ignition, but holding the Highlander key in close proximity to the ignition. It worked! If I have the highlander key on the keychain next to the metal spare Prius key, the Prius will start. The Highlander key is now a 'superkey,' it will start the Highlander, and it will also pacify the Prius immobilizer.
But this is not 100%; if it doesn't sit right on the keychain, I sometimes have to hold the Highlander key a little closer to the ignition to get it to recognize. I
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I have an 06 Prius. I bought it with a broken/leaking transmission about 3 months ago. I drove the car home and it sat for a few months, then I drove it into my garage to start working on it a few weeks ago. I just finished up with the trans swap this evening and I went to "start" the car to get the coolant circulating/blead, and the car would not start. I get nothing, I just get a blinking red light in the shape of a car with a key in the center.
I am pretty sure this is the immobilizer symbol. What can I do to reset/fix this? This is my first prius and I have not driven this one more than 50 miles so it could be something silly that I am just not familiar with. This is what I am doing...I get in the car, put the key in the key slot, and I push the brake, then I hit the power button...I get nothing, other than the blinking light on the dash.
I went back out to the car and messed around a little bit. When I put the key in the slot I get what I described above...nothing. But if I don't put the key in the slot, and just push the power button the display comes on but I am not able to shift into any thing other than park or neutral. When I am able to power up with out the key in the slot I get a red car with an explanation point going through it at the top left of the screen.
Then at the display just below the windshield most of the lights stay lit up. What does this point towards? Why would the car not try to go into Drive or Reverse? And what's going on with my key? The only two times I have driven this car i just put the key in the slot and it turned right on and I drove away, now with the key in it will not do anything.
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I have problem in my VW Passat v6 2002. When insert car key to turn on start Engine, The screen shows an error message: "immobil activated" That means: Immobilizer is activated! And after that car is auto turn off then the Engine shut down in one second with flashing key light! As the fuel tank is empty..
But When I try to start again after an hour / two hours it's works!! This situation comes up if the car was parked from last night until the moment of start on in the afternoon!!! What is strange that this problem does not occur only at the time of day warm, Between 5 and 11 o'clock in the afternoon hot days!!! Because this problem is not never happen in the evening and night.
I go to the Workshop for dellership Car Agency. They re-programmable keys, But the problem is still continuing.
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