Accent LC (2000-05) :: Car Idles With A Little Roughness
Oct 25, 2013
my car starts fine but It idles ''good'' or "ok" with a little roughness. it is so slight that you can barely feel it but it's there. the problem starts when I drive:
taking off on first seems fine until I reach in between 2000rpm and 2500 rpm, it seems to almost stall or the gas cuts off, then comes back,
then in second gear it does the same
3rd same but not as often-random
4th^^
5th^^
most of the time the problem happens sometimes it doesn't. it has been happening recently. it usually occurs in first gear and in second and when im not accelerating . the engine light came on also, but I haven't got the code (will tomorrow). I think it might be the throttle position sensor TPS but I don't want to buy it if that is not the problem.
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2004 F-150 Super Crew Lariat which I bought new and I just turned 300,000 miles. The truck has been very well maintained and is in great shape. It is hands-down the best vehicle I have ever owned and I have owned plenty. I drive mostly highway miles and lately I have notice a slight roughness or vibration when driving straight or turning right. If I turn left of center it drives as smooth as the day I bought it. The dealer can't figure it out, or they don't have the experienced personnel and/or they don't care to figure it out because of the high miles. They checked the power steering pump, which checked out fine and that was as far as it went.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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I have a 200 Honda Civic. Great Car. problem is intermittent. Sometimes the car idles down so low it seems as though it is about to die. At other times, it idles down normally (6-900 or so)
I have cleaned the throttle body, and no change.
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I've got a 2000 passat v6 and lately it started running pretty poorly. Now it takes a good 15-20 minutes just to get it started and idles very low and dies until after awhile it will run fine. I plugged in an obdII scanner and got the codes p1131, p1423, and p1411. I am pretty sure the last 2 codes are just emissions codes I've had ever since i bought the car. I haven't been able to find a solid answer on what this code is. I imagine it has to be something along the lines of a mass airflow sensor or o2 sensor. I'd rather not go throwing all that money at my car if I don't have to yet.
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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2002 sable v ... Replaced egr sensor and idle motor and pvc valve. Idles at park but in gear after 2000 rpm.... High idle back till 2 mins while driving but put it in neutral and idle comes back and stays till drive - 2000 rpm then bad ??? No codes ....
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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how to reset ecu from hyundai accent 2005??
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I recently bought an 01 accent 4d and it seems like i get really poor mileage. Its auto and i only get around 70-80 miles for half of a tank.
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It is hyundai accent LC 1.6 cc dohc. It's 2013 model ...
Now my A/C dose not work the lamp of A/C switch lighting and the blower work good with all 4 speeds but no cold air .
Itested R 134 a refrigrant and it's pressure it was good (with Low side). The problem is that clutch of compressor does not rotate until I make a jumber between 30-87 pin of A/c relay and then my A/C working very good.
I know that mean I jump triple pressure sensor and thermostat sensor. I do not want make that jumper. What can I do (test anything to make my A/C working normally).
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