Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
View 2 RepliesA few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesI've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
View 12 RepliesI am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 RepliesI have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
View 4 RepliesRecently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai Accent Hatchback (manual) is tripping the code P0422 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). If i clear the code it will pop back up after about 40-60 miles of driving. I hooked my OBDII sensor to it and look at the voltage output from the two O2 sensors and the front one oscillates between .2 to .7V and the downstream one does as well switching about at the rate. From my understanding the downstream O2 sensor should stay fairly steady or at least switch much slower than the upstream one. I get pretty good gas mileage, typ. ~30mpg. Luckily my state does not have emission testing. Is it actually the catalytic converter, the downstream O2 sensor or something else?
View 10 RepliesHyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
View 8 RepliesI'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
View 2 RepliesCold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesA few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
Having had bit of a disaster today (shutting keys in boot that cost me 85 quid, that's why you don't buy from people who've lost the spare key), I noticed back box mounts and back box are rusting.
Is it possible to swap the standard rear silencer for the 2005 1.3/1.5 accent with the twin outlet one for the coupe 1.6?
It looks very similar and the pipe bends look the same..? What a hissing noise is when in gear and running? Stopped it doesn't make the noise, and as soon as clutch is depressed while rolling it stops.. Had a new clutch fairly recently.
Car starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.