I have a 2002 hyundai Accest LC with a 1.6 ltr.-my CEL came on-ran the diagnostic and codes p1505 & p1507 came-up-is this a big problem or can I wait to repair 1-2 mths. What could the possible causes/fixes be?
View 1 RepliesWhat it does means that codes and how solve them is about dtml? How check it?
View 3 RepliesRecently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
I have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
View 1 RepliesCar - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
I have an 02 accent with 1.6 that has no reverse and throws P0732 and P0734. How to repair?
View 5 RepliesRecently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 Accent (Manual Tranny) with 95,000 miles needed the head rebuilt due to the timing belt slipping and making a mess of the valves. The car threw no codes before the mishap and ran perfectly but now shows the codes P0123 and P1605 after the rebuild. The shop that did the work said they spent 5 hrs trying to figure why these codes are showing. They swapped out the TPS which didn't work. I'm not sure if they swapped out the acceleration sensor. Anyway, since I picked up the car,it was idling low at about 500 RPm and fluctuating in neutral (remember its a manual. In the week that followed, the car wouldn't start a few times which I found out to be a loose negative terminal on the battery. Since I fixed that problem, the car idles at about 1,000 RPM when I start it but then jumps up to about 2,000 once it's warmed up or if I downshift and then throw it in neutral! And yes, the same 2 codes show up on my scanner.
View 3 Replies2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
View 5 RepliesThe car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 RepliesMy 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
View 3 RepliesCheck engine light came ON yesterday and I got a diagnosis at Autozone. These are the codes that came up.
P0456 - EVAP Emission System Leak (very small)
P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Range/Performance Bank
My girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
View 7 RepliesDriving car today and the engine light came on, so before going home I stopped at local garage and had it checked. this is what they got- first code P1445, second code P1000. Car is a 2012 Hyundai Accent automatic hatchback with approx. 40,000 km. (25,000 miles) bought in May of 2012.
View 5 RepliesWe bought the car used for my youngest daughter and it had a couple of codes in it. 1st was the o2 sensor.. easy fix, grabbed an OEM one and stuck it in. Then there was the Cyl 2/ multiple cyl misfire codes that kept getting thrown.
I've seen a bunch of post about people pretty much doing the same things I started out with and still having a problem.....
1) Swapped around all the coils.. still got a #2 misfire... So, coils are good.
2) Swapped in NGK Platinum plugs with a .032 gap.... still getting misfire.
3) Replaced the crank shaft position sensor...... still misfire
4) Noticed that there was an Ebay injector in the #2 cyl...... when I pulled the plugs, that cyl was running a little lean..... bought an OEM injector to go back in there...... still getting misfire
SO, I tried using a propane torch head and putting out gas around the intake to search for vacuum leak and got no response....... so, for the heck of it, I went old school and grabbed a can of starting fluid and started spraying it on the intake around where it bolts to head... bam... found a vacuum leak on #2 cyl....... ordered an intake gasket off of ebay, spent about 3 hours on it pulling the intake and replacing the gasket,( the bolts had loosened up over time and there were small tears in the gasket allowing it to suck air) .. put the new gasket on, cleared the codes and it's been running perfect ever since.
Check for a vacuum leak where the intake manifold bolts to the head... might save time and money.