Accent LC (2000-05) :: CEL Blinking / Code P0303 - Knocking Sound From Engine
May 22, 2012
I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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I just bought a 2010 Accent for my daughter and this was the 2nd time I filled it up. I realize now I should not have topped it off all the way but I did. The tank was probably bone dry when I filled it up as well. Within 5 miles after I filled it up, it started running rough and the check engine light came on. I stopped it and checked around under the hood. Checked to make sure the gas cap was tight. I drove it again and it appeared to run fine. I stopped by an Autozone and had the code checked. It was a misfire code for cylinder 3.
Drove it home (10 miles) and parked it. I took the battery terminal off and cleared the CEL. When my wife drove it a few minutes later, the CEL came on again and it started running rough. Had the code checked again and the cylinder 3 code came back. The guy at Autozone said over-filling the tank when it was empty probably caused too much pressure on the fuel going into cylinder 3 and that it should correct itself in the next few days. I drove it 20 miles to work today without any problems. It seemed like it had to be related to filling up the tank since it happened a few minutes later.
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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I have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
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My wife's 2010 RX350 with 75K miles on it , the check Engine Light came up with code P0303 (cylinder misfire). Since the warranty is out already so I went to my mechanic and had the spark plugs and the back ignition coils replaced. After a week, the light came back on. So I went to the dealership and they said the engine needs to be taken apart because of low compression and valves could have carbon build up already.
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Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
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We got our latest Santa Fe computer email and it warned of an engine fault. The car itself was not flashing any warnings though. Took it to the dealer and they said OBD was throwing a P0303 cylinder 3 misfire code. They shifted the ignition coil, and replaced the injector and seal before resetting the code. They had the car for 3 days though. Car was not running rough or anything else you would expect from this type of issue. Still trying to figure out why we got the email with no indication of trouble from the car itself.
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I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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My sister-in-law just came home with a P2069 code. I can't seem to understand how to use the search feature here, every time I enter the spam code its invalid even when I am entering it correct...
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1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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Last weekend on my way home from work, I heard this small "thump" noise then a rattling noise started. It really sounds like spinning a marble in a plastic bottle.
I got the car checked and we got code 0734 (Gear 4 ratio incorrect). We think there might be a tooth missing on the gear, but the mechanic wasn't entirely sure, as he wasn't a transmission specialist.
Now, I fear this may cost me my first born child, and I might just end up buying a cheap car for the Winter and get rid of this one; the transmission repair costs are ridiculous.
I've been driving the car in the city (30-50 km/h at most), I'm trying to avoid the highway, I'm afraid I'll blow it, who knows.
It has an automatic transmission, with 125,000 km on it, 2003 make.
The noise only happens when the car is moving forward, not when idling/parked, not in reverse. I am very gentle with the car, no highway speeding, no sudden speeding. I did however do an oil change a little over a month ago, and read somewhere on here that if the wrong fluid was used during maintenance that it could cause problems. I will call the shop and ask them about it.
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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Got this engine code error, how to proceed?
I have a '00 accent, just purchased a few days ago from a private party, when I bought it, I had a mechanic look it over, gave me the OK and said it passed inspection, no mechanical or obvious running problems with the car.
So I was driving around yesterday and the check engine light came on, took it to get the oil changed because I wasn't sure last time it was done, had the oil changed, light stayed on.
So I took it to auto zone to read the error code, was given this information. How to proceed?
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