Accent LC (2000-05) :: CE Light Code PO734 Which Is Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
Aug 8, 2009
So I got around and decided to fix my transmission my self. Any way I got the code PO734 from my CE light which is gear 4 incorrect ratio. So some people say its the solenoids that cause this issue, some say its the 4th gear clutch...
So, Is it the solenoid or it could be the clutch itself? Ive removed the 4th gear from my transmission today and it looks intact. No weird damage or physical like damage on it... I just don't know which to do since solenoid job i can do myself which will be about 5 hours minimum....
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I had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago, when I took it in it came up 4th gear incorrect ratio. The guy who rebuilt it said it wasn't the original tranny that came with the car because it was modified to fit in the car. When I got it back, after a couple hundred miles or so, the check engine light would come on for a day or two then go off. When the check engine was on it would get stuck in 3rd gear, once the light went off all was well until the next time. I took it back to the guy who rebuilt it since it was still under warranty. the P1529 code came up for TCM issue. He put some sensors and a chip in and thought it fixed it, no such luck. Finally I had the cash and had it looked at by another shop and the 4th gear incorrect ratio came up as well as the P1529 TCM code. He's suggestion to fix it was to either get a used tranny or rebuild this one again. He believes since it isn't the original tranny that the tranny in there now was for a SOHC engine, not a DOHC engine and that's why the ratio in 4th gear is off and it throws the TCM code.
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Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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Just picked up a 2002 golf 2.0 auto for $200. Get the car home start it up and it runs great but... transmission shifts all kinds of funky. Starts in first then shifts to third. If I give it some gas it shifts down to second but has nothing there, just revs. Will not go into 4th at all. Throw my little mac scanner on it some codes come up. Only one that mattered was p0277 if I remember. Do a little search and it comes up as the g68 under the tranny mount. Change that out and had not cel. Still shifting the same but no code at all. Throw my scanner on just to see and get p0730 incorrect gear ratio.
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Was doing some errands this morning and on the way home the transmission shifted a little strangely into 2nd. I had to let off the throttle for it to shift.
Fluid levels are correct and not burnt with no residue floating with a pinkish red color. Using Schaeffer's All-Trans Supreme.
I have read all of the threads related to the P0732 and the mechanical diode issue. Does the e99 4R100 have the mechanical diode? If not, what else could it be?
I also have the P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault which an old Ford mechanic stated could be related to a bad fuel sending unit which is definitely bad on this truck.
Am planning to go out and clean the sensor on the differential. Speedometer is working properly. I have also noticed what appeared to be a small slip when in reverse a couple of times that I initially attributed to tire spin. Is any of this related? Should I be prepared to rebuild/replace the transmission?
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My accent currently has just under 17k and about two months ago displayed a cel. I plugged in my innova 3100 code scanner and it displayed p0441. saying it was incorrect purge flow. My question is.. is this covered under the factory warranty. I'm on a very tight budget and I'm trying to find out before going in and finding out. I've owned Hyundai's since 2002 and so far have never paid for an out of pocket repair. But it doesn't hurt to check ahead.. And I've already gotten the standard "it's your gas cap". Ok I'd buy that if it was 10yrs old but it's only a yr and a half old. besides it only goes half a turn then clicks. so it kind of either seals or it doesn't.
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I have a 06 f150 and about a month ago I purchased an edge evolution. Twice in the past 3 weeks my o/d light starts flashing and my truck beeps and it shows Trans Fault on the trucks display. When I use the edge to check the DTC it comes back as P0731. I am running the canned level 3 tune no changes and trucks completely stock other then the edge. Also both times I have been going about 10 mph down a hill without giving it any gas. Also both times of shut the truck off and let it sit for a bit to make sure I wasn't going to break something.
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I drive hyundai accent 1.5l sohc.. Recently i was on my bots on turbo project.. The process when smoothly until i suddenly realized that my car was only move on 3rd gear.. then i took off my turbo out afraid of over boosting and straight go for diagnostic.. And error p0755 comes out.. So how to troubleshoot this problem..
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I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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My sister-in-law just came home with a P2069 code. I can't seem to understand how to use the search feature here, every time I enter the spam code its invalid even when I am entering it correct...
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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Got this engine code error, how to proceed?
I have a '00 accent, just purchased a few days ago from a private party, when I bought it, I had a mechanic look it over, gave me the OK and said it passed inspection, no mechanical or obvious running problems with the car.
So I was driving around yesterday and the check engine light came on, took it to get the oil changed because I wasn't sure last time it was done, had the oil changed, light stayed on.
So I took it to auto zone to read the error code, was given this information. How to proceed?
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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What the gear ratio is from factory?
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I got burned with a smoker back in the mid 1980's and have been hesitant to come back. I am currently pulling my 5er and my enclosed gooseneck with a 6.2 gasser SRW. It has the 3.73 gears in it...not the best for towing.
I am thinking about ordering a new SD DRW 2wd with the 6.7 PSD.
Both my trailers are rated at 18000 GVW, what would be the best ratio to order? 3.73's?? 3.55? Fuel mileage will be what it will be with what ever ratio I go with. The truck will be mainly a puller. Not a daily driver.
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Having problems with code p0169 incorrect fuel composition, I got this code today but I've felt like I've been having problems with it since I did the stage 1 update a few months ago before the update I was running the 93 octane setting and after the update it would rev up quite high when I first started the car so I switched to the 91 octane setting and I felt like every once in a while power would kind of bog down until today it finally popped this code and the epc light was also turning on and off, it also felt like the car was misfiring. My car won't rev up past 4K rpm....
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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