Accent LC (2000-05) :: Brakes Suffer From Severe Fade
Jun 5, 2011
I've noticed that from any higher speeds (over 100kmh) if the brakes are hit hard, they will suffer from severe fade and are useless until they cool for quite a while. Second, I don't know if it is simply my accent, but I just had the front pads done last year (they only have maybe 10 000km on them) and the brake pedal has probably 3/4"-1" of travel before any real stopping power kicks in. My parents just bought an 09 accent and the braking performance is just soo much better! I want to know if there is any way to bring my 02 accent on part with that of newer models. Do the calipers/rotors/etc from an 06+ model year will fit the 02?
I really have a sponge of a brake pedal and really want something done about it and I will go as far as it takes to get better performance out of my brakes.
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I have a '94 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder with ABS. The brakes work fine until I press the ac compressor button, then they rapidly begin to fade, letting the pedal go to the floor. When I turn off the ac compressor, the pedal gradually firms up back to normal. If it was the booster, it would be hard to brake, but it's not. If it was the master cylinder, the pedal would be soft all the time as the cups can not magically regenerate when the ac is off. What's the connection with the ac compressor.
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Noticed poor FM radio reception in 2012? Mine seems to just barely fade in and out. It's not terribly noticeable, but definitely happening. It's frustrating when streaming Bluetooth actually sounds better than the FM radio reception! I'm wondering if it's a problem specific to my car or if it's an issue everyone is experiencing.
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I have a 2003 F-150 4x4 with cruise control and 4-wheel disc. When I am at a stop light for a while, when holding the brakes, the pedal slowly begins to fade towards the floorboard. I have replace two master cylinders, the original and a reman and then put on a new Motorcraft one...all providing the same problem. I have been told by dealerships that it is my imagination or that this is a "normal" problem. Having my truck roll at a stop light while the brakes are applied is not normal.
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My daughter owns a 2002 Accent GL with auto trans. Over the weekend I worked on the cars front end. It needed new CV shafts,front bearings,a tie rod end, ball joints and front brake pads. I drained the trans fluid to prevent leaks when the shafts were removed and in the process of doing the brakes, I also had to use a tool to compress the puck on the disc brakes to get the new pads in. After everything was put back together and the trans fluid was added to the car, I started it up and went to back it out to test drive. To my dismay, the brakes would not work. I tried using the parking brake to stop ( didn't check it, foolish me) it was pretty loose. It backed into my Baja Bug, crunch. I put it in drive to get it off the bug, it then traveled at low speed heading for my restored 1955 Corvette in the garage. I put it in park, kept going, stomped on the brakes, it kept going until it crunched my Corvette. I was trying to turn it off while this was going on, it took place in a space of 20 feet, so not much time to react.
Pushed it back and put it back in park, started it up again, gave it a minute and all was good. I think the brakes just needed a bit more vacuum to function after the pucks were compressed and maybe the trans did not respond well due to the low fluid level until it was pumping again. Just wanted other users to be aware of what happened to me and to be aware. Runs great now after low speed rampage.
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While in for an oil change, the tech pointed out that my rear brakes were almost metal to metal, and that one pad on each side of the car had severe uneven wear. He noted he had never seen rear brakes go this quickly in a Prius and he had never seen the uneven wear. He said part of the mechanism that allows the pad to slide in and out as the brakes are used had frozen, creating a pivot point, and creating the uneven wear. The front brakes are fine with plenty of meat left.
Parts were ordered, including new shims and other hardware to try to insure this does not happen again, and the brakes were replaced. I contacted Toyota Customer Care and basically got the old line that brakes are a wear and tear item but the issue would be sent onto engineers.
I am the sole driver of the car and use the regen brakes at every opportunity, which is most stops. Since long brake life is one of the benefits of regen brakes, this is disappointing to say the least.
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This winter, my little green Echo sprang a noise. I noticed that when I turned on the heater plus fan that it would often (but not always) make a ch, ch, ch, ch, ch, ch sound that would last maybe 3 seconds then fade away, only to be reawakened when I started accelerating after a traffic light. For a while this winter it seemed to happen multiple times in a jaunt about town. (I would usually get a bit nervous, promise myself to have it looked at by my Echo car-diologist, and then turn off the fan for a while.) Just when I was about to take it in, it stopped happening, even with the heat/fan on full. And now it has started happening again. I know peanuts about cars, but my intuition says it's some kind of belt in the fan that's slipping. The car has about 75,000 miles on it....
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The rear brakes on my 2003 Accent keep loosening. I'm trying to see if the problem is the brakes or the parking brake.
I changed the brake shoes and rotors at the end of last summer. I kept the old adjuster.
During the winter I noticed my parking brake becoming more and more loose. The parking brake light came on. At one point I noticed that the parking didn't even stop the car when in drive.
I tightened the nut for the parking brake until it clicked 7-8 times before it was fully engaged. But it still didn't stop the car when i was in drive.
So I checked my brakes and one of them was really loose. I adjusted it until with a good swing the wheel made only one full revolution.
The other side was good so i left it as is.
I check the parking brake nut again and the brakes were working as they should. The parking brake stopped the car when I was driving so I though everything was fine.
This week, I am having the same problem. The parking brake doesn't seem to have loosened a whole lot, but my parking brake light is always on, and It won't stop the car when I am driving.
I'll check the brakes and try to adjust them again this weekend or sometime this week, but what should I be looking for? Is this a common thing? I'll go to the parts store to see if they have the adjuster part and try changing it.
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My vehicle is a 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS with 38,000 miles.
I recently had work done on my rear brakes after having a pretty horrific, loud metal-on-metal grinding/screeching sound. - the pads are still at 60 percent so they did not put on new pads, but they did a rear brake adjustment, shaved the rear rotors, etc.
That horrible sound is gone, but it has been replaced by a low-frequency groan from the rear brakes under hard stopping, from about 10mph down to 0mph. I honestly could not even hear it myself with the radio on but noticed it when coming to a stop without the radio on. It usually stops happening after a couple hard stops, then happens again the next time I get in the car and go somewhere.
To describe the sound, under those exact braking conditions it almost sounds like what driving a car through snow sounds like. Or a shoveling snow sound, minus the sound of the shovel itself hitting the ground. I am not noticing any corresponding vibration or decrease in stopping power.
Not sure if that makes any sense, but it's the best I can do. Could it simply be rust buildup working its way out? We have had a wet, cold, snowy winter and my car is parked outside every night overnight.
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Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
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I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback with 208,000 miles. Last Oct I had a complete tune up done on it: fluids, filters, spark plugs, etc. Ever since then, the gas mileage has dropped from getting around 390-400 miles off a full tank to 290-300 miles off a full tank. I have tried carburetor and fuel injector cleaners and nothing is working. At this same time, it also started idling at 1750 rpms every time I start it, dropping down to around 750-900 rpms after I put it in gear. The timing system was replaced about 7 months earlier. So far the repair shops can't find anything wrong. I also just had the transmission rebuilt and it's still idling fast.
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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I have an '05 Prius. I always turn off my AC before powering the car off. I used a sunshade. I don't turn on the AC for about a minute after starting the car and and/or getting up to normal speed. (about 35-40).
The AC will power on more reliably if on MAX. It will start to blow cold and stay on for about 45 seconds. Then, it starts to fade out and turns all the way off. If I allow it to wind all the way down, I can't turn it back on for about 10 minutes or longer. If I turn it off manually when it first starts to fade, the AC will allow me to turn it back on and get more cold air. (The problem is, I'd have to turn the AC on and off every 20 seconds or so to maintain cold air, and I'm not sure that's good for the car or battery...but I've done it before on my way to a wedding...didn't wanna be soaking wet for photos...and the air blew cold the entire 20 minute ride.)
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My radio in the B6 seems to be acting strange...... I'll have the volume at a set level and it will fade up and down, like the volume is being ever so slightly raised and lowered. I thought at first it was some sort of speed-volume control but it fades up and down for no apparent reason. I have the in dash 6-cd changer with the XM built in.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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My driver door speaker (top and bottom) often have static on them and fade in and out. I can tap the driver door and they'll usually come back in ... for awhile. Was wondering if I need to replace speaker(s) or is this just a bad connection in the door somewhere? Looks like I can remove the door panel from the useful DIY's below so just wondering if I should have new speaker(s) in hand when I do.
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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Deliver mail so make many starts and stops throughout the day. I drive a 1988 Mazda 323 manual transmission. Recently, it has had trouble starting in the rain (like it isn't turning over). When it isn't going to start, the red lights come on the dash and then fade out to black.
The first time I noticed it, I was running the lights, windshield wipers, radio, rear window defogger and the a/c on and off to clear up the front window. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the battery.
The next time it wouldn't start, I had accidentally killed it and was running the lights and windshield wipers and radio. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the alternator.
The next time it wouldn't start, I only had the the lights and windshield wiper on. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the distributor cap and wires.
Now today, it wouldn't start again but eventually did. I had the lights and windshield wipers and radio on. I turned off the radio before trying to start it the second time and it started.
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