Accent LC (2000-05) :: Brake Light / Defrost And Power Locks Not Working
Mar 4, 2013
Looking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6l automatic non ABS (original owner) with no real issues until last month when the left front brake started locking up. Sometimes within a mile sometimes after ten. The brakes go from normal pressure to hard as a rock unable to move the brake pedal even when I bleed off the booster. I've researched every site then proceeded with the following work.
Changed the front pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines plus the back brake cylinders, rubber lines and master cylinder then bleed the system using a power bleeder... all to no avail. As a last resort I replaced the booster, still no change.
I've checked the brake pedal and the booster pushrod adjustment. Eventually took it to my mechanic. After two days he told me he was stumped as well.
The only thing left is the rear brake proportioning valves on the left side of the brake cylinder. Can't figure out how they would be causing the left front brake to lock up if indeed that is the problem.
There are no kinks in the lines, no air in the lines, bleed almost a gallon of brake fluid through the entire system and still zip... Frustration and anger has left me for despair and total confusion and a 700+ dollar hole in my pocket.
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My driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
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After not starting my car following several days of extreme cold, my battery died a couple of weeks ago, and after boosting the battery, I noticed a couple of electrical accessories (power windows, rear defrost, rear brake lights) are no longer working. I was told by a mechanic at the local Wal-Mart that it was possibly the main relay, which I replaced at the dealer, but that did not fix the issue. I've checked the individual fuses for these accessories, and all of them are OK. How to troubleshoot this?
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I have a 2000 Taurus and recently the power windows and power locks stopped working. They won't work from any door switch but when I use the key fob to unlock or lock the car the locks will work. However, the windows won't work from any door switch. I didn't see a fuse marked for the windows or locks.
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My 2000 VW Passat (V6) is acting up. My power window/locks on the front passenger side aren't working. All the other doors and windows are fine, but the dealership wants to charge a lovely $1000 for "window modules"...
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My friend got pulled over for her 2011 Accent's third brake light not working. We checked ALL fuses in the driver's side box and replaced the bulb - no luck.
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The power locks started locking themselves randomly while I'm driving. First, the CARGO DOOR AJAR warning light comes on, then the locks click. They don't unlock, just lock. I've hit the unlock button, then they lock by themselves again. The dome light was also coming on, until I pressed the DOME LIGHT OVERRIDE button.
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So I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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I just got my beautiful accent but the locks sometimes lock and unlock on their own! I think its just a grounded out wire. It doesn't happen all that often but I would like to get it fixed. Also the window switch doesn't work on the passenger side. The only thing that will make it go up and down is the switch on the drivers side.
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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On my way home the speedometer stopped working and the air bag light came on. The odometer is still tracking distance and one other odd thing, the radio volume goes out as soon as the clutch is released. Tried a scanner and there are no codes.
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So yesterday we removed the radio from the car to install an after market one, after realising the after market radio had different cable inputs we reinstalled the original radio that was in there. But now the radio won't turn on, the clock doesn't work and the interior light isn't working. What the issue could be?
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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I also have a 2000 boneville and over the winter i discovered that those same three windows/locks/courtesy lamps doesn't work , I have went through all the fuses which are fine , I will call the dealership and check on the BCM. I also have the wet floor problem. But no sun roof, I read that it may be the connector under the pass seat, I see a connector above the carpet, could that be it or is it located under the carpet...
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My front driver side auto door lock isn't working. I thought it was the actuator but I already replaced that and there is no improvement. It unlocks just fine by pulling the handle, but the keypad and door switches don't work.
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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