Accent LC (2000-05) :: Brake System - Front Right Wheel Started To Make Grinding Noise
Sep 20, 2010
I own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
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2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I'm having 4WD problems with my Yukon, but the dealer keeps telling me there's nothing wrong with it (this has been going on for 2 winters now), which is either code for, "let's wait until it's extended warranty expires, so we don't have to pay for it," or "the computer says nothing is wrong, so that's all we're going to look at." When it's in 4WD, anytime I make a sharp turn or even turn a corner there's a grinding noise in the front, if I try to back up, it will only go as far as one revolution of the tires then stop (I have to take it out of 4WD to backup), eventually the "Service 4WD" light comes on, but apparently nothing gets recorded on the computer. It has 32,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2000 mercury cougar 2.5 liter. I bought the car without doing much research. now that i have the car did research and found out all the great problems that this car has. My transmission started to make a clunk clunk noise inside and it started to slip. At first it would go on all gears. then very rapidly started to slip in all gears. In matter of hours went from being good to being crap. i had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm or higher to make the car start moving. So i bought a transmission from a junkyard. I install it and did not work. The car did not move on any direction. I pull it out and look at it and found the small shaft that goes from the torque converter to the gear body was broken. I end up getting another transmission from the junkyard. I check it and everything looked good. I install it and got everything back together and that work on reverse but no forward. To get it on reverse I had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm. I being told that if I change the solenoid inside the transmission might fix the problem. It could be the transmission module that is burned out.
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I have Nissan Sentra GXE year 2000 model and it has 143K miles on it. I get a hammering noise on the front passenger side wheel when I apply brake. I did replace caliper, brake master cylinder, rotors, brake pads and brake shims but no luck. The noise is like "ta ta ta ta.." and it gets louder based on speed of car. Brake pads and rotors been replaced 3 times in last 2 years to get rid of noise and been seen by 4 mechanics so far no one could find the exact problem. I also took the car to Nissan dealership they also recommend changing brake pad and rotors which I already did thrice.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai ACCENT 4 door 45K miles. There is grinding noise that I hear when I do a slow brake. At first This grinding noise use to only happen in the morning the first couple of years, it would go away within minutes or less. Now, the grinding noise is almost during every slow brake at a red light etc. It's a grinding horrible noise that seems to be getting worse.
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
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Basically, when I make a hard left turn I hear a noise out of the front right wheel area. I do not hear anything in any other condition. It sounds like something rubbing up against something else. I know that my rims are in good shape - is this an outer or inner bearing issue? Or is this something completely different?
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Driving at hwy speeds and head a pop noise in front end. Stopped and couldn't find anything, heard it a couple of more times, still nothing found, now I have a grinding noise left front wheel. What the issue may be. 2001 Ford EX 4X4.
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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I own a 2000 Lincoln Continental and the other day it started making a horrible grinding/rubbing noise as soon as the engine started. I took it to my mechanic (been going to him for 6 years) and he said it was the Air Conditioner Compressor (specifically the clutch) was causing the noise and needed to be replaced.
If I remember correctly (I do not have any kind of documentation in front of me), the AC unit is at the bottom of the engine... Which could cause some issues. My question is, how easy/difficult is this to fix myself?
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I just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..
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2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
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Noise sounds like its coming from driver's side. It's not terrible until you hit 30-40km/h, after that its quite loud. No whistling sounds, which i was told to listen for if it were a wheel bearing (although I ma not convinced is the only sound a warn bearing makes).
The sound sometimes goes away when I am on a bend turning left (taking the weight off the drivers side wheel).
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So I had all of my belts changed including timing belt and tensioner pulley as well as an oil change. After, I noticed a weird pulsating grinding/wining noise coming from the engine bay. It only can be heard once the car is warmed up. (It is much louder in real life.).
Car Noise - YouTube
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Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.
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I have been getting noise that sounds like marbles in the front wheel area. It doesn't happen right away, but after about 20-30 minutes of continuous driving you can hear it. It is louder the faster the car goes, and when you stop it the sound slows down and stops. There is no difference in the way she drives / handles with or without the noise, but I know she hasn't made that noise in the past.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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Yesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
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