Accent LC (2000-05) :: Bogs Down And Bangs A Little Rough When Give A Little More Gas At Stop Light
Mar 14, 2013
I have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
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2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-250 6.8 v10 that is running rough and cutting out when I give it gas but I can turn the key off and turn it back on and it will run right, what it could be?
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Battery died. Got jump start but the guy crossed the jump cables. When positioned the cables correctly , the vehicle started normal but during the drive, heard two loud bangs on the engine; then the car shut down. Towed car to the dealer and they replaced the battery and the master fuse. The dealer rep. told me that the ABS light was still ON. Two days later I took the car from the dealer with The ABS, tire, BRAKE, EPS, skid, and engine lights ON and the steering is hard as well.
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1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
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Yesterday afternoon after warming up (car still in park) the engine shut down was very rough. I heard a quick string of maybe 5 or 8 loud bangs under the hood. Sounds like something got loose and banging inside the engine compartment and ready to fall off at any moment. This morning it was just a bit rough but not nearly as scary. Other than that the car seems to work fine.
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2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
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My Accent makes a really bad whining noise whenever I give it any gas, so I took it to the dealership. The tech who looked at it confirmed my suspicions and said he thinks it is something with the transmission. I have the 6mt. He said the head technician will look at it tomorrow and determine if it needs a rebuild... I am just hoping they don't pull some crap and say I damaged it with my driving (because it is the manual trans and that seems like the kind of thing a dealer would say) and say it won't be covered under warranty.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent gl and ever since the head gaskets been replaced its had an issue of almost stalling out when accelerating from a stop.
The cars overheating quite frequently as well like the thermostat isn't opening and the fans aren't kicking on.
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I have a 2003 Volvo S40. I just replaced the battery, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter along with a fuel system flush. Because the car was running very rough. It's been 4 days since i got it back from the shop and now my car won't start unless I give it gas. The car won't stay on and it smells like it's running very rich.
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My nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
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I just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2005 Hatchback automatic and I have a rising problem.
The car seems to shake violently when I am nearing or at a complete stop.
The shaking gets so bad that the mirrors start to shake.
The shaking stops immediately when I accelerate or at regular speed.
The car seemingly runs fine, accels OK and brakes are good. However, I can still hear some shaking when I am driving.
The engine light is not on, but obviously I feel like this is something I want to get checked out before the matter gets worse. What it can be?
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So on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
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Car starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
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