Accent LC (2000-05) :: Battery Leaking / Airbag Light On And Headlights Surging
Apr 8, 2013
I'm seeing the following symptoms in my 2001 Accent 1.6L:
1. Check Engine Light on;
2. Certain electrical functions occasionally surge. For example, headlights and dash lights will become noticeably brighter for a few seconds, and the heater fan will blow harder. The surges last for about 3 seconds, then stop. Surges happen randomly, sometimes four or five times during a 30 minute drive, sometimes not at all in an hour.
3. The speedo/tacho lights have been cutting in and out randomly for longer than this, and this does not happen at the same time as the surges above.
4. Recently, the surges became more frequent and the Air Bag light started going on, then off. Now it is permanently on.
5. The battery has leaked fluid out from the fill caps, a good few ounces of fluid.
6. There are no blown fuses.
7. The Battery is 6 months old.
8. The alternator is 6 months old, and is the third one after two previous ones failed; the original was replaced 3 years ago, and the replacement failed 2.5 years later.
9. A fried lead to the starting motor was found when the alternator was first replaced, and was repaired. Related?
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Some months ago airbag light went on. I carried my car to Hyundai and they reset the light and told me that the problem was probably the clock spring. But I tested the clock spring and it was ok and I tested the airbag device and was ok too. Now light is on again. I have tied a 2 ohm resistor between wires before the clock spring but light remains on.
Question: I have a cheap Chinese ELM327 OBD2 reader. Any software valid for this reader and able for reseting airbag light?
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On my way home the speedometer stopped working and the air bag light came on. The odometer is still tracking distance and one other odd thing, the radio volume goes out as soon as the clutch is released. Tried a scanner and there are no codes.
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
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I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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I own a 2001 Accent 1.6L. The other day both low beam headlights went out. The brights work and so do the parking lights when turned on. I changed the bulbs and still the low beams don't work but the highs and parking lamps do. I looked on the hood for a relay but could find one in the fuse box. I checked the fuses and they appear okay. What could cause the problem? I'm hoping it is not the stalk. Still a relay or switch under the dash?
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The other day, I was sitting in the just the right place with the light shining in the passenger window just right to notice a glistening liquid in the bottom crack of the line that runs around the passenger side air bag panel. (Hope I explained it well enough)
I was concerned about a water leak of course, but I have no water traces anywhere else behind the dash or the kick panel. I spread the crack apart far enough to get the edge of a paper towel in the crack to wipe up whatever it was. Low and behold, it is some kind of really slick, silicone type oil.
If the safety air bag should be leaking oil? Is my family in danger? Do safety air bags "degrade" and start decomposing in time? Could that oil be coming from some other source?
Can I pull that front panel off without making the bag explode?
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I bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
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The air bag light came on a few days ago on the wife's 2007 Accent GLS. What would the problem most likely be?
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My air bag warning light is on... What it could be to fix it? 2007 Hyundai Accent 5 speed.....
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I own a 2003 Accent (LC) ... After verifying my AC evaporator unit is leaking, I had replaced it with a new one.
Since the AC guy took the old evaporator off the vehicle, I didn't noticed the original location of the thermistor sensor.
I have a new evaporator which I put back into the vehicle, but I don't know where to locate the thermistor sensor, did not find any clue where to push it into.
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Not sure what happen that led to the Airbag light next to the speedo staying on.
Codes retrieved:
B1346 = DAB circuit resistance high
B1481 = DAB module circuit resistance high
B1329 = DFIS to SRSCM communication error
B2502 = Telltale ind light circuit malfunction
B1388 = Driver Seat track position sensor open or short to power
B1378 = DSAB circuit resistance too high
B2500 = Air Bag Warning light circuit fault
B1511 = Driver Belt Buckle switch circuit open or short to power
Where to begin solving for this problem.
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I have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
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2008 Hyundai 4 door accent, red "air bag" light turns on with turn of key, goes off for 2 seconds, then lights back up and remains on...
Thought maybe it was because i left the back seat folded down for almost a week, but since then i have placed it back completely into position. Disconnected the battery and re-connected it, still stays on..
I have also driving almost 200 miles with the seat back in normal position, was hoping it would re-set by now.. I recently installed a stereo system in the car, everything got hooked up to the factory stereo, and the light didn't come on for almost 2 weeks after the install.. Could it be because of the back seat being folded down?
My subs hit pretty hard, could this be enough to trigger some sensor? I have two Rockford Fosgate 12" P2 subs, powered by a RF 1000 watt amp. I've asked many Car Audio specialist about air-bags deploying from hard hitting bass, and i pretty much got laughed at every time, none of them have ever herd of it happening, and i would think by now there would be some videos on you-tube of this happening.. I cant find anything anywhere saying airbags have ever been deployed from hard hitting bass...
I've also herd moving the front seats forward and back could trip some kind of sensor? My fiance is only 5'2 and i am 6' and its our only car so needless to say the seat gets moved quite often.. I know i should go to the dealer and have it hooked up to the "code reader" .. Just don't want to look stupid when i show up..
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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I turned on the car today and about a couple minutes into my drive I noticed the airbag light was on. I pulled over, turned off the car, then turned it back on. The light came on with the rest of the warning lights, turned off when they all turned off, and then came back on a couple seconds later and stayed on. The car has just been sitting in my driveway. Only thing worth noting was that last night, while walking past the car, I noticed I had left one of the windows open. Also noticed my glovebox was open since I had gotten something out of it earlier in the day but forgot to close it. I turned the ignition half way to just use the battery to close the window (without turning the car on) and went to bed.
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After a cold night when I turn the ignition on only the airbag (blinking) and the battery (steady) icons come on. No cranking - nothing...After a few anxious tries the full set of icons come on and the car starts.No problems during the day. The battery is one year old.The 2007 Ranger (3L engine) has 180,000miles.I've tried my spare ignition key - no difference.Is this a PAS issue or a sticking relay?...
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