I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
How the easiest and safely dismantle my steering wheels...
View 1 RepliesGirlfriend went to start her car on a nice cold day, and said it wouldn't turn over. so after taking her to work, i tried to see what the issue was . . . and the key wont move. the steering wheel is loose, i used the transmission override to move the stick back and forth a few times. still no go.
Did the hammer tap on the key, and used electronics cleaner on the switch in case something was stuck.
Oddity was, the door ajar chimes come on without the key inserted. So am I chasing electrical gremlins or what? the car is a base model without keyless entry.
It's the SIR ASM COIL. I replaced my steering wheel with a custom steering wheel and now this thing keeps the steering wheel stiff because these adapters for the custom steering wheel don't work with airbag equipped vehicles. What I currently did because I no longer need my airbag was I disconnected the airbag wires underneath the dash that clipped on with a yellow clip like most other wires are and then I clipped them where they entered the SIR ASM COIL so it would rotate freely but those plastic stops also gave me trouble so I broke them off and now the steering wheel rotates smoothly as the coil moves with it but I fear that there is something I overlooked with this part and I'm nervous about it. Is there anything else connected to this SIR ASM COIL besides the airbag wires? If so what do I do?
View 2 RepliesMy accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
View 4 RepliesI own an Accent 2000 model Manual Transmission. When the motor gets hot , the gear lever become increasingly hard to move and eventually locks. i.e., after say 10 minutes.
If I stop the car, turn the motor off, the gear lever moves freely. Start the car up again and the gears seem to work for a while.. then it locks up again.
This happened about 2 months ago.... seemed to fix up for a while.. now its back permanently. I changed the trans oil.. it made no difference..
The cable to the trans seems ok.. When the motor is 'off' it never jams. BUT i am not using the clutch then !! Could it be clutch.??
I just bought this transmission from a reliable parts dealer. Should have about 50k miles on it. Looked really clean when I got it.
The guys who put in the tranny cracked a speed sensor, so I bought a new one and put that in. I dried off the sensors and screwed them into their spot on the tranny after removing the intake filter that was in the way.
Even with the new speed sensor the car is still doing the following:
1) Does not go into reverse until I've gone into drive for a couple seconds, pulling forward. Reverse does not work. However, when I unplug the speed sensor reverse works right away, but we still experience the following...
2) car goes from first to second gear to third gear smoothly, as it should. Seems really smooth like a car should shift! However... it won't go past 3rd gear and then it won't downshift! So, even after stopping and idling, I can't leave 3rd gear.
3) When I turn the car off, then turn it right back on, I can go through first, second, third gear again then... it stays in 3rd gear.
Another issue that has come to my attention since I got the car back, is the steering wheel shakes pretty hard while idling with no gas. While driving it seems smooth -- idling again it shakes heavily. what could they have damaged while putting in the tranny to cause this shaking?
So far as the funny tranny stuck in 3rd gear, it seems to me like it's a computer issue? But, what could be the cause? What tests can I do to determine the cause of this problem besides the ones I've run so far?
My 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and when I got into the car yesterday the car wouldn't start. It won't even turn on to turn on the radio or roll down windows. The steering wheel and brakes are stiff and the last message I saw was S/T Lock on the dash. I thought it was the battery since sometimes when leaving the lights on auto mode they don't turn off which I thought killed the battery. I bought a brand new battery after trying to recharge the "dead" one and even with the new battery nothing happens. Just now after hitting the unlock button a bunch of times I tried starting it and the ignition button turned green a load up screen came up but still wouldn't start. Now it's back to doing nothing with the steering wheel and brakes stiff with no green ignition light.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
Tried to start my 2007 es350 this morning. While I was attempting to start I was also adjusting my seat backwards and the car failed to start. The gas pedal is stiff and so is the steering wheel. The Start button turns orange when I try to start , if I really press down hard on the brakes the start button turns green but when i press it there is a flickering noise but she doesn't start. What could it be ....battery is about 9 months old?
View 2 RepliesMy 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
I'm seeing the following symptoms in my 2001 Accent 1.6L:
1. Check Engine Light on;
2. Certain electrical functions occasionally surge. For example, headlights and dash lights will become noticeably brighter for a few seconds, and the heater fan will blow harder. The surges last for about 3 seconds, then stop. Surges happen randomly, sometimes four or five times during a 30 minute drive, sometimes not at all in an hour.
3. The speedo/tacho lights have been cutting in and out randomly for longer than this, and this does not happen at the same time as the surges above.
4. Recently, the surges became more frequent and the Air Bag light started going on, then off. Now it is permanently on.
5. The battery has leaked fluid out from the fill caps, a good few ounces of fluid.
6. There are no blown fuses.
7. The Battery is 6 months old.
8. The alternator is 6 months old, and is the third one after two previous ones failed; the original was replaced 3 years ago, and the replacement failed 2.5 years later.
9. A fried lead to the starting motor was found when the alternator was first replaced, and was repaired. Related?
My college age daughter is driving a 2008 kia sportage. She tells me that when it rains the battery light goes on and the steering wheel locks up.What to ask the mechanic?
View 5 RepliesIt seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
My driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
View 1 RepliesLooking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
When I have to push on the brakes for a hard stop, I can feel the brake pedal and the steering wheel shake a whole lot. Also, he ABS light is on. Correlation between the 2 obviously?
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