Accent LC (2000-05) :: Bad Noises After Oil Change
Sep 2, 2012
I did an oil change recently, as I have done many times in the past, but this is the first time different noise like this could be heard.
I had synthetic in there before (mobil 1 + mobil 1 filter) because it was on sale for a ridiculous price, and I figured I would try it out. I now have Shell oil in the engine and it is the same weight (10w-30) as always. It is dino oil, supposedly with synth blend or something, and I also installed another synth filter.
I now have some minor valvetrain noise, a little louder than normal, and a tick that is loud - which is the part that really worries me.
Should I go back to synthetic, or should I look at the top end? I opened the valve cover, but nothing looks wrong at a quick glance.
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My hubby hit a curb on vacation last weekend and now it sounds like something is grinding and we can both feel vibrations (on both driver and passenger floor) it does not do it when stopped. We had to cut the bottom of the under carriage away from the tires due to it rubbing, thinking that was what the noise was, but its only getting worse.We just changed the CV joint on the driver side in March at the same time. We do know he has a small exhaust leak but it was never making this sound until he hit that curb.. I really don't want to take it to a shop to have it looked at if I don't have to, I normally do all the work myself.
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I have a 2004 Accent with 150,000km on it. I've done a number of jobs on it, and I find it to be a relatively DIY-friendly vehicle. A little while ago I had an issue where it would die after warming up, sometimes at a stoplight. Otherwise, it would intermittently fail to start after it had been parked for a very short time. This was fairly obviously the crank position sensor, which I replaced. At this time, I haven't had the same issue again.
Since that small repair, however, I have been noticing other issues. From inside the cabin I can hear a distinct whine that climbs 1:1 with the engine RPM, whether or not the clutch is engaged. Once the RPMs hit the power-band(ha-ha), the whine is joined by a metallic jingle. From outside the car, both whine and jingle are audible through the entire RPM range. It sounds to me like a clear case of bearing noise coming from the belt and pulley system.
Since this whine started, the car has been giving lazier starts, requiring slightly longer to fire up. The noise changes significantly when the AC/defrost system are engaged, although I'm not sure if this is because the faulty part is connected to that system, or because the RPMs drop once it's engaged, both, or neither.
I will be doing a timing belt and water pump change before the snow flies, and I would love to find the parts that I need to treat the jingle at the same time as the rest of the belt system replacements.
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Since the weather got colder I've been getting really loud, squealing belt noises. They happen mostly when I turn on the car. They sound like when I had an old Altima and turned on the A/C the belt would squeal. But the sound happens even with no air turned on or defogger turned on. And it happens sometimes when I make a really sharp turn around when I first start the car. After it's warmed up I generally don't hear it. Also, sometimes having my foot on the brake will change how long the sound lasts for. I'd like to know what belt this would be and if just WD-40 should be used for now (or some type of belt dressing) OR if it's detrimental not to get work done on it. Also let me know if I'm able to tighten it myself or if that's better left. I replaced a valve cover gasket a few months ago so that's about the extent of my abilities at this point.
It's a 2003 Hyundai Accent Automatic...
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My 2005 Accent will be due for a transmission oil change soon. (105,000.00mi). I have never done a transmission oil change before and I was wondering if it is necessary to change the filter as well. The maintenance manual says change the oil it does not mention the filter. I'm not crazy about removing the oil pan unless it is recommended.
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I just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
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My mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
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'05 Accent, 19k miles. Car has been great, except suddenly I'm getting a weird shifting issue when I first start the vehicle. After I put the car in reverse, then change into drive, the car SLAMS and stops briefly, as if I've hit something. This has started to happen a lot lately.
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After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
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2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
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Recently I had my oil changed (do it every 3500 miles) . Normally I do not drive many miles per day, but about 5 days after the change I noticed my valves making a noise... I thought it was a stuck lifter....put in some mystery oil...all was fine until I again noticed the clacking lifter after driving 15-20 miles highway....I then checked my receipt from the oil change and it showed they installed .5w30 not the 10w30or even 5w30 weight oil recommended. I took my jeep to another place and had the oil changed again with 10w30 oil and all is fine now...my question is... I drove with the .5w30 oil for about 6 weeks and 800 miles... did this potentially damage my engine?
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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I have been experiencing pinging and crackling noises on acceleration from my vehicle it was purchased from the dealers May 2012. The problems started in October and I have been back and forth with the dealers for the same problems over and over and getting additional problems. Not to mention they keep saying that the problem is fixed and as I leave the compound I hear the noises.
I took it to have an independent scan from the dealer as it is now 5 months of run around with the issue not being resolved and I found out I have a bad ac compressor, steering rack and shock mount.
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Wheel bearing replacement. I think my drivers side is shot. Making clucking and squealing noises if driven around town. Doesn't sound bad on the highway.
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My 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 130,000 miles has possibly the loudest engine imaginable. It seems fine at start-up but really starts to rumble around 35mph. Once I get to 60+mph, I'm getting hearing damage, and there's enough shaking to make it difficult to see what's in my mirrors.
Oddly enough, the engine clams down when I turn the wheel around a curve on the highway. As soon as I'm driving straight again, it's loud and shaky. In addition, the gauge next to my speedometer, (which I believe is 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, etc, right?), the needle fluctuates significantly and bounces around violently between 2 and 3. The check engine light will come on and stay on for a week, then shut off for another week. It has turned on and then off several times now.
Would you say this is a simple oil issue? I just got it changed not too long ago. And it only started when it started to get really cold here in MA. Could just be a coincidence though. I don't want to pay a lot to fix anything, I only need to get this car to last 6 more months til I can get something new. Any small steps you think I could take to decrease the shaking and noise?
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Buick Regal 2000... Could it possibly be a leaf hitting ventilation fan? Turn the fan off to test. Looking for someone who knows something about cars to listen under the hood and try to pinpoint the source.
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I have a 2000 VW beetle with a fairly new clutch (2 yrs old). My boyfriend is new to a manual transmission and I can't say I know much about how it works either. A few times when he was driving he will reverse out of a parking spot and then shift to first and the car will make a deep rumbling noise. We turn off the car and turn it back on and its fine. Is the car stuck between gears? Why does it make this noise?
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My 2003 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer 4WD is making noises when the vehicle is at 2000RPMs. Below or above 2k RPM's no noise. Sounds like a very angry rattle snake. I seem to drive at speeds that require it to be at 2k RPM all the time. So needless to say as fall is approaching and I have the windows open, my hair is now falling out and not blowing in the fall air. I want to get it looked at, but don't know what to tell the mechanic to look for.
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If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
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I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
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It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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