Accent LC (2000-05) :: Bad Misfire In Low RPMs
May 5, 2016
My car is a Canadian 2002 Accent. I believe it's a GLS, and it has the 1.5L engine.
It has a worsening misfire in the low RPM's, although the RPM range this happens in has been broadening. I can now smell unburnt gas when this happens.
This problem first reared its head around a year ago. I replaced the fuel and air filters without it resolving the problem. I changed the spark plugs - the old ones looked to be in reasonable shape, but suddenly it ran great with the new plugs - for a few months.
The misfire started to creep back in. Since then, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor. I replaced the throttle position sensor. None of these things solved the problem.
The battery terminals were getting pretty corroded - I hadn't thought this would be related to the issue, but I cleaned them. This did not fully solve the problem, but it did drastically improve it. I bought a new battery the same day - the problem while not gone, seemed to be much more manageable.
About 100km later, the problem has significantly worsened again. I tested voltage across the battery - with the car running, the voltage is ~14.2V. When the fan is on full and my fairly high powered stereo is running, voltage still stays ~14.2V. I'm assuming that should mean that the alternator is good?
Previously, I had tried my ignition coil on my sister's Accent, and it seemed to work fine - but I'm not entirely convinced that the coil is guilt free. I have not done any further testing on the coil, and have not tested the spark plug cables - I'm not sure how to properly test the coil or cables, and don't know where to find the appropriate specs for them should I learn how to test them.
I got the car on the cheap, however, aside from the low (now mid) RPM stutter, the car seems to otherwise be in great shape, and only has 150,000 km on it. Unless it's going to cost an excessive amount, I would like to get this car running right again.
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I have recently had some problems with my 2001 Yukon, it a 5.3L and has 4x4. when I accelerate I get about 2000 RPMs maybe and can barely get above 35mph. I brought it to a local dealer for a diagnosis and was told I had a bad catalytic converter, four bad O2 sensors and bad injector connectors. I've replaced the injector connectors but its still acting up. I don't want to spend the 700-1000 on a new catalytic converter when I can just replace the sensors.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent gl and ever since the head gaskets been replaced its had an issue of almost stalling out when accelerating from a stop.
The cars overheating quite frequently as well like the thermostat isn't opening and the fans aren't kicking on.
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i have accent 2000. RPMs goes up when car is in neutral. Why is this?
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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I have an 02 Accent 1.6L that has about 190,000km on it. It is now misfiring under low rpm's (anything under 2000) and the engine light will flash and then go off after about 5 seconds. Once the engine light went on and stayed on but I got the code read and reset it. The code was P 0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. I replaced the coil pack since that is apparently the common cause of this issue.
No luck with the new coil pack still have the same problem. I started smelling gas about 1000km ago so I assume that it is burning rich and putting raw fuel into the engine. My spark plugs are under 10,000km new and the wires show no signs of any problems. My next thought was to buy a new MAF sensor and hope that is the issue.
What this could be? FWIW the engine seems to run a little better for about 5km after using a throttle body clean on the TB. It also runs minimally better when I use a Lucas fuel additive.
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I have a 2004 Accent Gt with only 43k miles on it and I am getting a cylinder 4 misfire when I refuel. I have replaced the 4 spark plugs. The original code was random multiple and now it is just cylinder 4. I tried to swap 2 spark plugs to see if maybe there was something wrong with the plug but the misfire did not move to another cylinder. I've read about maybe swapping fuel injectors, where I can find directions on how to do that?
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I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
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2004 Hyundai Accent has is misfiring, after warming up, only in idle. This only happens after about 30 seconds in idle. Could it not be getting enough gas? This being said I was getting misfire on 3 as well but that would happen all the time and cause the entire car to shake. This problem is now fixed and only #4 is causing me problems.
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I have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
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Car threw a multiple cylinder misfire, changed plugs, wires, and then coil packs. Code keeps coming back.
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So, I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has had the CEL light on ever since I have owned it (about 7 months). I was told it was the O2 sensor and did not have it scanned. Occasionally, it would lose power and the CEL would blink. After I would take my foot off of the pedal and baby it for a sec it would usually go solid again and drive okay. About 2 weeks ago it started blinking constantly and it sputters and drives like sh*t. Now, I know that I should take it to Autozone or someplace so that they can tell me which cylinder is misfiring and all, but it is really sketchy to drive. I put NGK spark plugs in it today with no change. I ordered plug wires and a coil pack to see if that straightens out the problem. If it doesn't then I am going to lean towards intake gasket or perhaps a missing or bad o-ring at an injector. So, does this sound like a reasonable plan of attack to get rid of the blinking CEL (misfire) and restore my Accent back to all of its craptastic glory?
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I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
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Just the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent GT automatic (83,000 km) and I am having a problem with the gear shifting. It's happening more and more.
As I am driving I am pretty sure that it's changing to a higher gear but when I slow down it seems like its not shifting down at all. Coming off the Highway I have to slow down and when I speed back up it seems like its still in the high gear. The RPM's instantly jumps up.
The only way it fixes it self is when I pull over and shut off the car and then start it up again and I am fine. A friend at work said that I may have to have my transmission fluid checked and filled up.
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I got a 2002 and its giving ma a po301. I know that means a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the Coils, Plugs and wires, and now its still there but the check engine light is flashing. What next?????
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Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
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I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
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I've got a 2000 accent 1.5, and I keep getting a code for a cylinder 3 misfire, when I change the spark plugs, it runs great for about 50 miles or so, then back to square one again. I just changed the coil pack the other day and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. It has massive hesitation under heavy throttle, and the check engine light begins to blink if it sits and idles for too long. I've scanned it multiple times and it's always been cylinder 3, so it's definitely set on that one... I'm about stumped on what this could be. Also, the previous owner said that after a hot day of driving, the ECU fuse under the hood will blow out, what could cause either one of these things?
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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