Accent LC (2000-05) :: Air Conditioner Compressor Clutch Is Not Engaging
Dec 17, 2012
l have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
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I have a 2000 chevy malibu that has not had a/c the past 2 summers. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem could be. When I start the car and then turn on the a/c by pressing the button in the car nothing seems to happen.
When I went to look at the compressor motor I could see that the clutch is not engage and the middle of the compressor is not turning. What to check without taking to a mechanic??
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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I recently purchased a 2005 Monte Carlo, it has the 3.4l V6. I live in Pa. and like others our winter has been real cold, I was waiting to pick up my wife from work the other day, while sitting in the car i was changing the heat selections from defrost to floor to bi-level and realized that the A/C compressor clutch is engaging when the selector is on defrost and floor, it disengages on bi-level. I know that it is supposed to engage on defrost. Is it normal for this car to activate the A/C on floor? if so it is a first for me.
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
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Driving home in my 04, and it just died, no caution lights, still have battery power, and starter is engaging but engine wont catch, like no fuel or spark. Found no burnt out fuses, and checked the fuel pump relay. Pulled out the back seat, turned key and heard the fuel pump, so that is working, replaced the crackshaft position sensor, still no engine start.
Over 130k miles, 1.6l
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Picked up an 02 Accent with 97K for local use. The brake pedal went down half way before engaging and hardening. Front brakes were good. Rear shoes were worn and had a leaking wheel cylinder on the right side. Changed the shoes and both wheel cylinders. Bled the rear brakes with the engine off by pumping the pedal slowly and opening the bleed to make sure I got no air in. Pedal got hard just off the top and the shoes hold the brake drum tight.
Now, turn the engine on and the pedal goes all the way down before it grabs and gets hard. I was going to bleed again with the engine on to see if that makes any difference. Can't see that it's the master cylinder and the car has no abs.
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Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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Just put my car in for it's first year's service(20,000 km). I made an observation to the service tech that during warm weather, there is a noticeable rattling whirring sound.
During testing, they were able to compare my car with another and confirmed the noise to be from the air-con compressor.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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I have a 2009 VW Tiguan SE with about 85K on it. Yesterday driving to work the alternator/ac belt broke, after replacing the belt the AC compressor will not turn on. The AC was running fine up until the belt broke, so far I have checked all the fuses and the codes, no bad fuses and no codes. I read in the manual about a compressor shaft overload protection but it doesn't go into detail what this is or how to reset it. I could imagine that since the belt broke while the AC was on the system could think there is an issue with the compressor and shut it off but I can't figure out what to check or how to reset it. The AC system was checked a few months ago and has been producing cold air so I don't think there is a coolant level issue.
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I have a 97 Mazda and I notice that the air compressor never shuts off unless I turn the A/C off. I have checked the relay and it is fine. What other control is keeping the compressor clutch from releasing?
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I have a 2013 Prius with few miles. It seems like the air conditioner compressor makes a very loud humming noise. It's a little annoying inside, but outside it is really loud. I know it is running off an electric motor and I expect that to make some noise, but this seems excessive. Is this normal? Also, the compressor keeps running all the time. I thought they were supposed to cycle on and off. It seems like all air conditioning compressors do this to conserve energy, even a house air conditioning unit.
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1996 Mazda Protege air conditioner died today in the lovely 2nd week of Kansas heat wave of over 100 degrees each day. Was replaced in 2006.
What should be the approximate cost of the parts and labor to replace? Is it normal to have died after 8 years? It was a reconditioned one.
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I bought a used accent 1.3 before few months , with 100k miles on the clock. I did all the basic maintenance stuff, oils, filters, spark plugs, coolant, timing belt etc... I replaced the clutch disc also, because it was slipping.
The problem is that the clutch engage with a knock sound, just like when you have a loose engine mount. But... if i stay with clutch pedal pressed for a second, do the shift and released, the clutch engage smooth and all works fine. So, that's the way I do shifts for now.. Is this a flyweel problem?
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My clutch makes a hissing sound whenever i press it down while driving, its working fine, but am worried about the sound, i checked the master as well as the slave cylinder and there is no leak. Plus how do i remove the moisture from my headlamp.
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I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
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My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
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2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
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I have a 2000 Accent that I changed the clutch and CV Axles on and now the transmission seams to be stuck. When i got done replacing the axles and installing the brakes I spun the wheels while installing the nut to aline the cotter pin. Once I got the car down, serviced the gear oil, bled the clutch master. Went to drive the car and it wouldn't move .
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