Accent LC (2000-05) :: A/C Not Working - Condenser Fan Won't Go Into High Speed
Aug 3, 2016
I have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
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When I'm on highway (between 90 and 120 KM/H) I heard a whistle when speed is stable. it happen frequently in the last week. I notice it happen approximately at 95 and 110 KM/H. When I remove my feet from accelerator, I don't hear the noise anymore.
(Accent 2002 hatchback).....
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trying to find the speed sensor on a 03 accent manual so I can fit cruise control
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Ever since passing on an opportunity to trade in our 07 Santa fe for something new, and deciding to keep this car until the end, we have come across a few electrical issues.
The highest speed setting on the windshield wipers have stopped working. The wipers just freeze. The drivers door lock no longer auto locks when you hit the lock button on the way out of the car.
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Blower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
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Ive had my R32 for a couple months and the AC worked fine until the other day. I went on a cruise up the mountains with some friends. Had the AC on until I got off the highway. Turned it off for the spirited drive, nothing crazy just spirited. Temps were only 70-ish degrees. Drove up to the base of Mt Evans road, about 10,750 feet and then back down.
Parked for lunch for about an hour, got back on the highway to cruise home and the AC is blowing hot. I didn't hit anything during the drive, the roads were for the most part smooth, the temp gauge didn't budge. Now the aux fan is stuck on hi. I can park overnight, engine is completely cold, start it up and the fan immediately goes on full blast and stays on the entire time the car runs.
I know VRs make a lot of heat, do they have issues with the AC system? Is this some common thing I should have searched for? I have vagcom and can look around but don't really know what I am doing with it so I don't want to mess anything up. Pics for clicks.....
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So the A/C on my wife's 2013 Tiguan stopped working suddenly this past Thursday, just our luck this weekend was the start of a 95+ degree week. Took it to the dealership today for a diagnostic and they came back saying that the line between the condenser and compressor has a leak and needs to be replaced. They're estimating about $690 including tax for the job, this includes the AC evac and refill.
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I have a 2000 Excursion and it appears the AC lines going into the condenser are leaking. I had a local shop replace them, vac and recharge the system for 96.00. The ac was never really cold, and he used a vac pump and gauges to recharge. He said he thought there was enough refrig in the system for me. I got tired of just cold air so I put a small bomb in the system tonight and woah, I had ice cold air again. I noticed that where he replaced the O-rings, it appeared to be oily again! I went to a friends house and he as the glasses and UV light and we could see the dye around the connections where the hoses bolt to the condenser. We cleaned em off with brake cleaner and will recheck tomorrow afternoon. How odd is it to have the O-rings replaced and then have it leak again? I know he did not use OEM O-rings. I do not think its the condenser, we can only see the die on the fitting and around the flange of the hoses.it is easy enough to replace the condenser and it is not labor intensive. I called the shop and he said it would be about 25.00 plus a recharge but he doesn't know its leaking AGAIN. Should I go and replace the condenser as well? This image doesn't show the lightly wetness around the flanges.... but here it is.
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A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
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The MIL light up and I got the P0501 Code. (Speed Sensor. I use a Scangauge II and the Speed is 0 KM/H at any speed. (was working before). But the in dash Speedometer work no problem. I look on the HMAservice web page and did not found where is located the Speed Sensor.
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I have a '05 Accent GLS Hatchback. 5-speed, manual transmission with about 82 thousand miles on it. I bought the vehicle used about 2 years ago. Ever since I've had it, its been a little jumpy in first gear when going at very low speed. Especially during traffic jams, barely pressing on the gas will cause it to jump a little bit until you put the pedal down further. Lately its starting to do something similar when it 4th gear. When you push your foot on the pedal it jumps a little and does the same thing when you take the foot off the pedal. What may be the cause? O2 or TPS sensor maybe? It did give me a flashing check engine light for about 10 seconds this morning but it hasn't done that since.
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My hyundai accent 2005, have problem of jerks /die speed after engine get warm, also increase if AC on, when I starts car in morning it works great and no problem but after 3 or 5 km as engine get hotter speed kills,but it happens more or worst in evening at 4 when returning from office and temp is 45+ in riyadh, saudiarabia.
I change air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark cables, also use fuel injector cleaner but still problem remains, I want to tell you its start when I changed engine valve cover gasket due to oil leak, as I changed this problem suddenly appeared, I went to other mechanic but he told me the problem not in valve cover gasket,it is somewhere else he clean my throttle body ,and its works for 2 day only that i felt the problem solved but after two days problem appeared again,there is no engine light power on for any electronic malfunctioning.
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3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
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I have a 2001 accent 1.6 5 speed manual. When I put it into reverse it dont fully engage until I give it some gas and then it slams into reverse with a bang. I am not really sure but I think it only does this with the car is cold I may be wrong though it started this a few weeks ago.
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Have replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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What happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
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I have a 2004 Accent with 150,000km on it. I've done a number of jobs on it, and I find it to be a relatively DIY-friendly vehicle. A little while ago I had an issue where it would die after warming up, sometimes at a stoplight. Otherwise, it would intermittently fail to start after it had been parked for a very short time. This was fairly obviously the crank position sensor, which I replaced. At this time, I haven't had the same issue again.
Since that small repair, however, I have been noticing other issues. From inside the cabin I can hear a distinct whine that climbs 1:1 with the engine RPM, whether or not the clutch is engaged. Once the RPMs hit the power-band(ha-ha), the whine is joined by a metallic jingle. From outside the car, both whine and jingle are audible through the entire RPM range. It sounds to me like a clear case of bearing noise coming from the belt and pulley system.
Since this whine started, the car has been giving lazier starts, requiring slightly longer to fire up. The noise changes significantly when the AC/defrost system are engaged, although I'm not sure if this is because the faulty part is connected to that system, or because the RPMs drop once it's engaged, both, or neither.
I will be doing a timing belt and water pump change before the snow flies, and I would love to find the parts that I need to treat the jingle at the same time as the rest of the belt system replacements.
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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