Accent LC (2000-05) :: A/C Has No Cold Air
May 21, 2014
It is hyundai accent LC 1.6 cc dohc. It's 2013 model ...
Now my A/C dose not work the lamp of A/C switch lighting and the blower work good with all 4 speeds but no cold air .
Itested R 134 a refrigrant and it's pressure it was good (with Low side). The problem is that clutch of compressor does not rotate until I make a jumber between 30-87 pin of A/c relay and then my A/C working very good.
I know that mean I jump triple pressure sensor and thermostat sensor. I do not want make that jumper. What can I do (test anything to make my A/C working normally).
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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My 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
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My ugly little 2000 Accent that I've taken careful care of for 240,000 miles has developed an intermittent, multi-symptom cold starting problem, how to solve....
Background on the car: I've owned this car since it had only 9,000 miles, so I know everything that's happened to it over the years. I've kept up on all the regularly-scheduled maintenance over the years and miles - oil changes, timing belts, engine coolant, water pump, belts and hoses, pcv valve, plugs & wires, fuel and air filters, transmission fluid, etc.
No check engine light on, no codes to diagnose available
Not leaking oil from the top or the bottom
No vacuum leaks
Runs strong, no loss of power or rough running at idle or under load
No major components related to spark and fuel delivery have been replaced - coil pack, fuel pump, etc
Symptoms:
Starting problem 1 - The car will simply refuse to catch and start up, sometimes for as long as 10-15 seconds of cranking, after which it starts and runs normally. This happens infrequently, but has been becoming more frequent in recent months.
Starting problem 2 - The car will immediately start to fire (one or more of the cylinders will catch), but will hesitate to fully start up for about 2-3 full engine rotations, what I would describe as a rough start.
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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Awful belt noise that erupts during cold starts. I realize that this usually means a replaced belt. I want to know how to go along diagnosing which belt and then how to replace it. Here's the symptoms:
1. Awful belt screech when turned on, goes away within 20 seconds
2. Belt noise comes back when turning the wheel to back out of a right driveway
3. The STEERING WHEEL feels like it has no power steering WHILE the screeching is happening.
4. The headlights (when on) dim for about 3 seconds
5. All these symptoms happen when the temperature is below freezing and it's a cold start.
How is the belt screeching connected to the steering wheel being tough I turn?
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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Just bought 2012 hyundai accent and not sure if I have air conditioning. The dealer wasn't sure but didn't think so. It has all the dials, heat works, defroster works, circulation button seems to work, but just air blows when I turn the dial to cold. If I have all this stuff, does that mean I have AC and its just not connected or takes forever to start to work (read about this issue on some forums). If I don't have AC would it be easy to install since I do have all this stuff?
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2008 Accent 234,000 miles, Auto. I have an issue with my A/C that I can't seem to get a handle on. The A/C does not blow cold all the time.
Blows cold - When driving all the time. While sitting still IF it is cool out. Cools to around 48 degrees in the morning.
Does not cool - When sitting still and it is hot out. Has blown over 100 with outside temps around the same.
Freon levels are fine. Sounded like an airflow problem so I replaced the condenser fan and it did not work. Both fans are running when the A/C is on.
Something is turning off the compressor when it is hot and I'm not driving. I did notice one day that the high side A/C line was extremely hot to the touch. Does this system have a high pressure switch? Could it be a high pressure issue only when the compressor gets hot?
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Alright so my car is up to 112k miles, other than oil change, a battery,tires, and a new ignition (tumblers fell apart somehow) its had zero maintenance really done to it. Which I know, this means its long over due for things like spark plugs, timing belt, and other mic. stuff. Its almost all highway miles, and really has no problems. I haven't put much into it because it hardly gets driven in the summer since I ride my motorcycle. The only issue is that Indiana has had a lot of rain this year so ive been driving it more.
The Problem- for months now its made a light ticking sound on start-up for about 30 seconds, and it fades away. If I rev the engine the sound gets faster, but still takes time to go away. As of Recently, the sound has gotten louder for about the first 10 seconds, and I'm worried it may become a serious issue and leave me stranded because I drive about an hour one way to work every day. So before I start throwing parts at it, where should I start?
Timing belt?
Valve Adjustment? (not sure how to do this but I'm sure there is a guide)
Plugs?
No I'm not running a FRAM Filter, its a Mobile 1, with full synthetic oil changed about every 6-7k miles. I plan to do the belt and spark plugs as soon as I get some consistent time off, but that may not be until it gets cold again.
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The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it will not start. I can push start it and it will fire. Once I have drove it and the engine temp has gotten up I can shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours come back and it fires right up. If I leave it for 3 or 4 hours and come back the car will not start I have to push start it again. If I spray a little starter fluid in it it will try to fire but will not start except on 2 occasions where the starter fluid started the car.
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