Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Fast Idle And Cooling Fans Won't Come On
Apr 17, 2013
Few issues I am having with my 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Automatic 1.6 with 150k.
The first issue is the idle speed. The car idles between 1500 and 1800 RPM no matter if you just start it or if you drive it 200 miles. I have replaced the IAC valve, and that didn't change anything. I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks.
The second issue I am having is that the engine cooling fans do not come on when it gets up to temp.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and that didn't seem to work. I also tried swapping the relays, but nothing happened so I just pulled the relay for the cooling fan and ran a jumper wire so the fans run all the time while the car is running. It keeps the car cool, and I can drive it, but I want it to work right.
The third issue is that the car sometimes bogs out when you are pulling out or in traffic with the AC on. It almost sputters and hesitates when you try to go. It runs great at highway speeds. Could these issues all be tied together maybe the same problem?
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I have issues that are drivin me crazy. Cooling fans not coming on. I was driving and smelled antifreeze, I immediately looked at gauge was at 210. So I stopped to check, right side of radiator was split. Put new radiator in waterpump and thermostat. As the car was running during the flush process it started spewing so shut it down gauge was 210. Plugged in Modus ran codes were none for overheat. The cooling fans are not coming on while car is running, but I can turn them on with the with the modus so fuses and relays are all good. The one thing that puzzles me why it works with modus but not by itself. If that's not enough started a couple weeks ago sometimes when hitting bumps loose power to windows, radio, convertible top, and then hit a bump and it starts working again. I have been all under the dash and hood checking connections and grounds to no end.
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I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. My car has a misfire at idle. It has stumbled every once in a while at idle before while at Red lights. Now it does it all the time. Check engine light is on and I got 5 codes. P0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0340, and p0012. The last two are for cam position sensor. I took it outo and looked at it. Looks fine. I reinstalled it and hand cranked the motor with a meter hooked up and I am reading about 10 volts when it senses the metal ring going around. So I think that is good. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses to see if the motor reved to hopefully find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I also noticed today that my cooling fans or my ac don't work. Now I have another issue to deal with. I checked all my plugs and wiring and coils also.
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Cooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 195,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and I'm stumped! The issue presented itself with a check engine light and the radiator cooling fan not turning on. The trouble code indicated the cooling fan relay was faulty. In all cases below, I tested the radiator fan by turning on the air conditioning (thus forcing the cooling fans to run) and also for it to come up to a high temperature coming close to the danger zone.
1. Fuse - first tested the fuse and it was OK. Had to start with simple things first.
2. Cooling fan relay - I replaced the relay which has a reputation for failing on the Dodge. Still the fan did not kick in.
3. Cooling fans - tested the cooling fans and the motor was seized. Replaced the cooling fans and tested them by jumping them. The cooling fans still do not turn on. There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay and coming into the cooling fan harness.
4. Wiring - tested the wiring between the relay and the fans. They checked out OK (good continuity and resistance check). There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay. Now it's getting more complicated... I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECM and tested the wiring between the ECM and the cooling fan relay. A-OK.
5. ECM - it is unclear how to check the ECM for functionality of the cooling fan.
There are 3 wires (supply, ground, and switch wire?) The supply voltage and ground is good, but I don't know what voltage the switch wire should be. I've read that it is pulse width modulated so I can't measure this with a simple voltmeter. I've also read that the switch wire goes to ground thus triggering the relay. I don't know which is correct. Several mechanics I talked to were skeptical that the issue is with the ECM, they knew of very few instances of this being the culprit. I even replaced the new cooling fan relay with another new cooling fan relay on the off chance that the replacement was faulty. Did I miss something in my logic and diagnostics? I've resorted to wiring a switch directly to the cooling fans and toggling them on and off.
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My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
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I own a 2004 V6 Touareg as I have been going to the dealership for the last three months now and they cant solve the problem.
Once I start my car in the morning, immediately both cooling fans start running and they wont stop until I shut down the car, it takes them about 10 min to shut down.
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I have 05 prius and the cooling fans wont kick on as well as the ac wont work. I have had the cooling fan motors checked they are good. I have changed the 2 cooling fans relays and the cooling fans still wont kick on.
When I bought the car the check engine light was on so I had it scanned and it threw the code P1121 coolant valve control. so I went and bought this part since I heard it was a common problem but haven't got it put on yet. Could this cause the cooling fans to not kick on and ac not to work or is it something else?
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I have a 2004 Camry that the cooling fans won't turn on at all. I checked one of the cooling fans by running direct power and it worked. I then checked all the fuses relating to fans and A/C. Then checked relays by using the horn relay in Fan 1 and Fan 3, which are both 4 pin. I bought a new relay for Fan 2 as it was a 5 pin and still no change. The fans don't come on at any stage, turning on A/C or letting the car idle to the point of the water boiling from overflow. I'm thinking it's not the sensors as the fans should turn on when the A/C is turned on.
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After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
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2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback with 208,000 miles. Last Oct I had a complete tune up done on it: fluids, filters, spark plugs, etc. Ever since then, the gas mileage has dropped from getting around 390-400 miles off a full tank to 290-300 miles off a full tank. I have tried carburetor and fuel injector cleaners and nothing is working. At this same time, it also started idling at 1750 rpms every time I start it, dropping down to around 750-900 rpms after I put it in gear. The timing system was replaced about 7 months earlier. So far the repair shops can't find anything wrong. I also just had the transmission rebuilt and it's still idling fast.
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2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
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One of my cooling fans will not shut off, I think it is the aux fan. Anyway it will fun till batt is dead either hot or cold .
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My 97 lesabre cooling fans won't come on. the car gets pretty hot when driving around town. I saw on another form that they should come on when the Air Conditioning is on but mine does not. I got the fan to come on when connecting it directly to the battery so i know the fan is good. I replaced the high speed relay with the horn relay and still nothing.
Im not opposed to putting a switch in the cabin but im not sure the best way to go about doing that.
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In the process of resurrecting my 93 SSEI after running at idle for awhile the engine was pretty hot. I noticed the fans never came on. I unplugged the temp sensor and both came on. So would the problem be the temp sensor, thermostat, or relay. I am not sure what the actual engine temp was because my Cluster only works when it wants to, usually when its warmed up and going down the highway or when I mat the throttle.
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I have an 06 Passat 2.0T, and last night whenever I shut off the car, the cooling fan is constantly running. I had to unplug the battery so it wouldn't drain it, and about 5 hours later, I hooked it up and it stays off. I also noticed when turning on the air conditioning, the smaller fan doesnt kick on. I'm lost and don't know where to start. Could it be a thermal switch or the whole fan assembly
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The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
From what I'm reading, this sounds like it probably is either the fan control module or the fans themselves failed. Is the fact that both fans don't work in either high or low speed point to this being more likely to be a fan control module? Would this show up as a fault code on a VAG-Com scan?
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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