Have a 2004 hyundai accent and I think I am having problems with the torque converter locking up in a timely fashion. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes when I am driving on the highway. Is this normal for it to take that long? My gas mileage is terrible (22 mpg last fillup) and I am thinking its related to this.
View 7 Replies2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
View 6 RepliesLooking for the fuse that controls the overdrive torque converter clutch/lock up/engagement. Had a look in the owner's manual, didn't find anything. Pulled a couple fuses that I thought might be the one, no go.
I had found this fuse b4 but now a couple years later can't remember which one it is and can't remember where I found the info on what # the fuse was.
When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
View 6 RepliesMy torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
View 11 RepliesSo I have installed a 331 stroker with an AOD trans in an early Bronco.
The question is... What is the correct procedure for getting the lock up converter to function? How does it need to be wired?
I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
I bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
This car has been giving me quite a bit of trouble lately. 04 Ford Taurus SES, about 97,000 miles on it. Just last weekend, it broke down on the highway. Found out the torque converter failed and needed to be replaced. I was suspecting that something was wrong with the transmission for a while now, because it would stutter sometimes when accelerating, and sometimes start shaking in the front when I turned it on. (It still stutters after having the torque converter replaced.)
Well now, a day after shelling out quite a bit of money to the dealer for this torque converter, the check engine light is on. I went to Autozone to check the codes, and they found P0300, P0305 (cylinder misfire) and P0316 ("crank sensor condition"). Is it possible the transmission is failing?? I found a bunch of complaints online about the transmission failing on the 04 Taurus. I'm trying to avoid more expensive repairs, but I don't want the car to break down on me again....
Also, a couple months ago, the check engine light went on a few times, but always went off within a day or two. Never did get it checked out because it didn't stay on long enough.
Where is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
View 1 RepliesI am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
View 1 RepliesI have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
View 14 RepliesTorque converter lock V6 vs. V8.
When O took my V8 in for service the dealer gave me a V6 as a loaner. I noticed right away that in 6th gear the torque converter locks up and stays locked until the gas is pushed way down, then, if I push further it shifts down to 5th. On my V8 it does not seem to lock at all and acts like 50's automatic.
It this normal? Can I change the setting at which the torque converter releases the lock? Clearly the 05' V6 has different programming. I have have drive a standard transmission all my life and this is my first automatic and I much rather have that connected feeling between engine and road!
So here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 1.9 TDI Diesel engine, automatic transmission 200K miles. When sitting at a stoplight or even when just starting out in the morning the transmission won't engage. I have to bring the engine up to about 1600 RPM's then with a clunk it goes. After that it shifts fine. It even down shifts nicely when going up a hill. Now, if I am on the freeway with it and want to pass another car, it will unlock again and slip if I get on it to hard. It then will lock back in and go. Checked the transmission fluid and its full. (I still can't believe that can't put a stupid dip stick in new cars) I am trying to do all the possible cheap fixes first in hopes that it could be something easier then replacing the transmission.
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