Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Slight Stumble At Idle
Sep 6, 2011
2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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Bought the truck 1000 miles from home, ran great, checked oil it was black and well used, coolant was milky and degas bottle had some pressure in it.
Drove 200 miles fine, 75mph lots of power, no smoke, no overheating.
While cruising felt slight stumble, and lost hot air from the heater (started blowing cold), saw temp needle move slightly (still under 1/2 mark) and pulled over. Truck stalled on the offramp, and I was not able to get it to fire. I checked oil and it was same dark black. Coolant was low, down to about 2.5 gallons.
Towed it home, oil change, coolant flush, new thermostat, rebuilt IPR, and it fired right up. Ran great, smooth. Noticed slight haze out of the exhaust at idle, and puffs of white smoke when on throttle. Checked oil and it was milky. Where to look?
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I have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
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Few issues I am having with my 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Automatic 1.6 with 150k.
The first issue is the idle speed. The car idles between 1500 and 1800 RPM no matter if you just start it or if you drive it 200 miles. I have replaced the IAC valve, and that didn't change anything. I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks.
The second issue I am having is that the engine cooling fans do not come on when it gets up to temp.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and that didn't seem to work. I also tried swapping the relays, but nothing happened so I just pulled the relay for the cooling fan and ran a jumper wire so the fans run all the time while the car is running. It keeps the car cool, and I can drive it, but I want it to work right.
The third issue is that the car sometimes bogs out when you are pulling out or in traffic with the AC on. It almost sputters and hesitates when you try to go. It runs great at highway speeds. Could these issues all be tied together maybe the same problem?
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
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2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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My Van has a slight stumble when I am going along between 25 and 55 mph and just barely touch the gas. Little more than touch the gas and it stops, full acceleration and it runs great...
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
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I've noticed for quite a while there's a slight clunking sound coming from the front chassis. It's more noticeable when the car's moving slowly, and when the car's driving faster the clunking sound becomes a vibration. I think it clunk maybe once when the wheel is turning a full circle. Does this indicates a CV joint problem? Both sides of of the front wheels have ruptured CV boots(for a long time). I'm just too lazy to get it replaced. Is it easy to replace the boots and ball bearings inside it, or just to replace the whole axle? The axles are not very expensive any way. Is it possible to find out which side need to be replaced immediately?
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The front wheels on my 04 accent has a slight vibration ( it's so slight that you don't notice it ) when driving at any speed . if I let go of the steering wheel , it wobbles back and forth . I also sometimes get a vibration on the steering wheel at high speeds when braking which feels like a rumble on a game controller .
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I have a 97 F150 4.6. The truck has developed a slight stumble/misfire when under acceleration. Once at speed it runs fine. It has not given any codes. I've checked for them several times. The plugs and wires have been changed. Is it possible that a coil pack could be bad without throwing a code?
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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I have the 5.3L FLEX Fuel with 98K miles. I have purchased this 2nd hand and having a slight idle stumble when in park as well as in drive @ a stop light...etc. If i am under way, the vehicle runs flawlessly. When i am idling with the brake on or in park, there is a slight stumble that is driving me crazy. I have replaced the high dollar IRIDIUM plugs but did not replace the wires...they looked fine. I did clean the throttle body. I get fuel from different places and it does not make a difference. I have not cleaned the fuel system professionally but I have used OTC additives such as SeaFoam. No codes are exhibited on a diagnostic computer or any updates available for that matter.
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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09' Auto accent developed an issue that I haven't been able to sort out. Car began experiencing a condition where it was harder and harder to start, over about a 2 day period. As well, when stopped at a light it would idle fine, but almost stall when you tried to accelerate. Once above about 2k rpms it was fine, but then near 4k rpm it felt dead, didn't want to pull.
Only code was P0171.
Here is what I have checked thus far.
All injectors ohm out exactly at 15.1
-Fuel pump primes at key on like it should
-Verified cam/crank are timed properly (timing belt didn't slip a tooth)
-Car is MAP based, so no MAF to deal with. It's totally stock down to the paper air filter.
-Purge solenoid is closed and appears to be functioning properly.
I was checking things last night and this time it didn't want to start at all. I haven't checked for injector pulse or spark (it's coil on plug), but this didn't seem like part of the issue it was experiencing. Almost feels like a cam or crank sensor going out (timing is acting weird). Is there a relatively easy way to test the cam or crank sensors other than just trying new ones?
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