Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Overheating False Indication
Sep 12, 2016
For three months. I have a problem overheating false indication. I changed the water pump, the thermostat, the cooling radiator, the temperature sensor.
When driving with more than 110 kilometers, and turn on the lights, the temperature rises. The same is done with any electric charge, air conditioning etc.
If I reduce the speed of about 70-80 kilometers then the temperature begins to fall.
Note that I measure the temperature on the temperature sensor base, with a digital thermometer and while the temperature gauge was almost in the red field, the temperature showing the digital thermometer was 88-90 Celsius degrees.
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I'm having difficulties fueling my vehicle. The fuel pump will shut off every few seconds indicating the tank is full, but it is definitely not full at all. With this, I have to carefully insert the pump into the tank only a little way and generally I can hear the gas bubbling up and eventually spilling over onto the ground, and me. This method takes about 10-15 minutes to completely fill the tank.
I have replaced the vapor canister vent valve and was given another part with two ends connecting by two wires (see attached) that I couldn't locate on the car to replace, so I still have it in my tool box. After replacing the one item, it did not fix the problem.
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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Car heats up (dial at 3/4 temp.) with A/C on at highway speeds. Turn off A/C and temperature drops back to normal (in between the two dots). Everything appears to be in working order.
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I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.
Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.
I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.
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2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.
I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.
After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.
I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).
Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.
Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.
I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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I have a 2004 Solara. Ever since I could remember, the outside thermometer has been giving me false readings. When I pulled out of my garage today, the outside thermometer read 50 degrees. I drove to work without stopping for 60 miles and the gauge still read 50 degrees. When I got to work, the gauge quickly dropped to 41 degrees.
This problem has happened many time before. When the car is in motion, the temperature will not change. When the car comes to a stop, then it will adjust. Where is the sensor for the thermometer? Maybe the air is not reaching it due to the high speed.
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Over the weekend I went to go run some errands and while I was leaving my neighborhood, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree, with the red triangle, CEL, low tire pressure, and the exclamation on the MFD. So I quickly turned around and parked it back in my garage.
A little later and after doing some research on the forum here, I began to troubleshoot, at which point the feeling of dread was at the pit of my stomach and decided to go to the local auto store and have the code read. It was of course the "P0A80 - Replace Hybrid Battery Pack" the exact message I didn't want it to be.
So I turned around and went back home, the entire time all the lights stayed on and monitored the SOC of the traction battery. It was charging, just increasing and decreasing quicker than usual.
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Authorized Service Center told (10 days back) me Brake Pads (Front) needs replacement to overcome the problem. But Still problem persists.
Now He says Master Cylinder and Booster Pump needs to be replaced.
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