Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Lost Reverse And All Gears Aside From First
Sep 4, 2013
I have the opportunity of getting i believe a 2004 accent gt for next to nothing. It recently lost reverse and all gears aside from first. The codes it is triggering are p0734 p0732 and p0733. Prior to throwing the codes it moved back but wouldn't budge forward. With codes no reverse or any gear higher than first. Car has 160k miles I am pretty mechanical. Should I run from this "cheap" "gas saver" or pick it up? With all 3 codes could it be just that sensor?
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I'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
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While driving on highway lost gears no reverse or any gears. check fluid ok no burnt smell
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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2004 accent had a drink spill on lower console, and think this is why it quit shifting? Disassembled, cleaned switches, unhooked battery, and car still has no reverse, shifts HARD into drive, will not move further.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0 4x4 with over drive. When backing out of my driveway there was a harsh "thud" (for lack of a better word) and I lost reverse. The forward gears are still working. We pushed it out on to the road and I drove to my place of business. At that time reverse worked again. It only lasted a couple more times. Still have the forward gears. Could it be a band or clutch?
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own a 2005 Hyundai accent 1.6L engine. I replace the engine today. The previous engine had internal damage. The transmission I left alone. I didn't disconnect the wiring. I only removed the engine. The transmission worked flawless. When I turned on the car the engine sounds great and the transmission sshifted gears and the wheels were moving. The speedometer worked so then I turned the engine off and lowered the car down from the Jack stands and tired it shine but this time the transmission did not shift gears. I lifted the car back up and did still did not shift gears. The transmission does nothing. The checked the guild level and it's full. What can cause a transmission to suddenly stopped engaging gear?
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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What this may be. 2004 Accent Automatic. We just purchased recently for my daughters fist car. Today when leaving the house the car stays in first gear, you can move the shifter through the gears but it wont shift up. Reverse is fine. Checked the oil level in Neutral when hot and it was ok. Hooked up my code reader and there are no Codes. Car only has 85,000 KM on it.
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My 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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Just the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
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I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
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I have a 04 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,000 mi. It all started about 3 months ago. The truck would neutral out while driving. After changing tranny fluid and filter, along with rear speed sensor the problem returned after driving 3-4 miles. After digging deeper I found the transfer case was bone dry and fried inside. Replaced the TC and check fluid level again. Back out of garage and drove the vehicle approx. 2 miles. Stopped to grab a coffee and left truck running. Returned to find I had no reverse or drive. This is after driving it to where I was. Towed truck back home.
I noticed the vehicle would start in gear. Replaced neutral safety switch ( grooves properly aligned ). Started truck, reverse lights come on when in reverse.. The problem now is when I put vehicle into R,N,D,3,2,1, the truck does one thing... REVERSE. All gears put truck into reverse, no forward movement at all. I attempted to replace safety switch a couple of weeks ago but was unable to remove the nut holding the lever on. 2 days I spent on that nut. Now I'm wondering if I did something inside the tranny when I was wrenching on that nut for 2 days?
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