Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Key Stuck In Lock Position In Ignition / Wheel Locked
Mar 29, 2014
My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I easily removed the key lock cylinder but when I went to put the new one in I cannot get it to turn all the way back to lock the pin in place. The steering wheel is not in the locked position nor can I get it to lock. I have turned the steering wheel as far left and right as I could go with no success on getting it to lock or on getting the ignition key lock cylinder to turn back securing the actuator pin. The old key lock cylinder won't go back in either. What am I doing wrong?
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I've recently purchased an 02 Envoy from an auction. There are a couple of issues. The main one started last night. While at the store I put the truck in park and turn off the ignition. The ignition will not go into the lock position. I messed with the key and go it to turn off. Then started the truck to leave and couldn't put the truck in gear. I messed with the shifter and was able to put into gear.
At that point the gear shifter would move from park to reverse without me pushing the break pedal. I drove home and could not turn the key all of the way off again. Moved gear selector from 1st to Park a few times and then was able to remove the key. I restarted the truck and could not move the gear selector again; however I was able to remove the key easily.
I am leaning towards replacing the "Neutral Safety Switch" on the tranny but with my symptoms, I've seen brake light switch, ignition, and solenoid at gear shift selection.
Back up lights do not work either. Since I purchased the truck, I've replaced,
-Battery
-Ignition Coil
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I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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Just wondering if leaving the key in the ignition in the lock position causes the car to draw power from the battery.
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Got it on the motorway to find the passenger window had dropped slightly when shutting the door.. And on pressing the electric window buttons, the passenger and two rear windows aren't working! The driver window opens and closes perfectly fine. Looks as though the window lock button is stuck on, but pressing the button makes no difference as though there's a loose connection.
Might this be a fuse problem with the locking mechanism, or what may have caused this and if I can fix it easily, or whether it does need to go back to the dealer.
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I have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-3. I tried starting it this morning but the key won't move from the locked position at all! What should I do? The steering wheel doesn't seem to be locked and I had the battery changed not to long ago.
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The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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I just bought this transmission from a reliable parts dealer. Should have about 50k miles on it. Looked really clean when I got it.
The guys who put in the tranny cracked a speed sensor, so I bought a new one and put that in. I dried off the sensors and screwed them into their spot on the tranny after removing the intake filter that was in the way.
Even with the new speed sensor the car is still doing the following:
1) Does not go into reverse until I've gone into drive for a couple seconds, pulling forward. Reverse does not work. However, when I unplug the speed sensor reverse works right away, but we still experience the following...
2) car goes from first to second gear to third gear smoothly, as it should. Seems really smooth like a car should shift! However... it won't go past 3rd gear and then it won't downshift! So, even after stopping and idling, I can't leave 3rd gear.
3) When I turn the car off, then turn it right back on, I can go through first, second, third gear again then... it stays in 3rd gear.
Another issue that has come to my attention since I got the car back, is the steering wheel shakes pretty hard while idling with no gas. While driving it seems smooth -- idling again it shakes heavily. what could they have damaged while putting in the tranny to cause this shaking?
So far as the funny tranny stuck in 3rd gear, it seems to me like it's a computer issue? But, what could be the cause? What tests can I do to determine the cause of this problem besides the ones I've run so far?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 97 Bravada. Recently the check engine light came on and then went off. I didn't think anything of it at the time till the other day I drove it to work and back fine without any issues, then the next morning I tried starting it and nothing happened. No cranking, no interior lights, no sounds.
I tried jumping it thinking the battery was dead but that didn't work. Now my key is stuck in the ignition in the accessory position. It will not turn all the way back to release the key.
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Quite awhile ago my key started to randomly get stuck in the middle ignition position but it was happening very rarely and some gentle jiggling was letting me take it out easily. Well a few days ago that went from very rarely to each and every time I start the car.
Now its a tossup whenever I go somewhere whether the key will pop out like it should or I'll have to fiddle with it for anywhere up to ten minutes.
The car never has a problem starting, its only when I have arrived somewhere and need to take the key out that is an issue. I've managed to remove it every time so far but it has taken a fair amount of WD-40, jiggling the bejeezus out of the key and steering wheel and plenty of patience.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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