Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
View 1 RepliesSo I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
View 2 RepliesMy sister is having an odd issue on her 3-door accent. The hatch-open indicator light is on all the time. But when you press the brake pedal the light goes out. She has to disconnect the battery every night so it won't wear down.
Most of the suggestions were to check the sensor/latch at the hatch. But if the light is going out when you press the brake pedal - then the problem is nothing to do with the sensor. I think it might be a bad ground somewhere. I've taken the sensor/latch completely apart - the problem is not there.
She had this problem a few years ago. I wiggled and pulled on every harness under the dash, and I removed, checked, and reinstalled the rear bulbs. I don't think any of that worked, but eventually the light went out on its own. But now the problem is back. I think the problem might go away and come back depending on the moisture in the air.
I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
This truck has been giving us problems off and on for a while now. Whenever I am sitting at a stop light for example and the truck is in drive but I have my foot on the brakes it acts like it's trying to lunge forward and the engine is revving and shaking the whole truck. My husband just drove it this morning and now whenever it gets really wet outside the truck doesn't want to go anywhere. He said he was flooring it and he was only going about 20mph and the engine looked to be shaking bad. I have no clue what could be going on?
View 6 RepliesJust curious as I don't see the check engine light on my Accent 2004 GVS. Not even when I insert the key in the starter switch.
My mechanic told me this model doesn't come with a check engine light which I cant believe.
I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
My daughter owns a 2002 Accent GL with auto trans. Over the weekend I worked on the cars front end. It needed new CV shafts,front bearings,a tie rod end, ball joints and front brake pads. I drained the trans fluid to prevent leaks when the shafts were removed and in the process of doing the brakes, I also had to use a tool to compress the puck on the disc brakes to get the new pads in. After everything was put back together and the trans fluid was added to the car, I started it up and went to back it out to test drive. To my dismay, the brakes would not work. I tried using the parking brake to stop ( didn't check it, foolish me) it was pretty loose. It backed into my Baja Bug, crunch. I put it in drive to get it off the bug, it then traveled at low speed heading for my restored 1955 Corvette in the garage. I put it in park, kept going, stomped on the brakes, it kept going until it crunched my Corvette. I was trying to turn it off while this was going on, it took place in a space of 20 feet, so not much time to react.
Pushed it back and put it back in park, started it up again, gave it a minute and all was good. I think the brakes just needed a bit more vacuum to function after the pucks were compressed and maybe the trans did not respond well due to the low fluid level until it was pumping again. Just wanted other users to be aware of what happened to me and to be aware. Runs great now after low speed rampage.
I've noticed that from any higher speeds (over 100kmh) if the brakes are hit hard, they will suffer from severe fade and are useless until they cool for quite a while. Second, I don't know if it is simply my accent, but I just had the front pads done last year (they only have maybe 10 000km on them) and the brake pedal has probably 3/4"-1" of travel before any real stopping power kicks in. My parents just bought an 09 accent and the braking performance is just soo much better! I want to know if there is any way to bring my 02 accent on part with that of newer models. Do the calipers/rotors/etc from an 06+ model year will fit the 02?
I really have a sponge of a brake pedal and really want something done about it and I will go as far as it takes to get better performance out of my brakes.
The rear brakes on my 2003 Accent keep loosening. I'm trying to see if the problem is the brakes or the parking brake.
I changed the brake shoes and rotors at the end of last summer. I kept the old adjuster.
During the winter I noticed my parking brake becoming more and more loose. The parking brake light came on. At one point I noticed that the parking didn't even stop the car when in drive.
I tightened the nut for the parking brake until it clicked 7-8 times before it was fully engaged. But it still didn't stop the car when i was in drive.
So I checked my brakes and one of them was really loose. I adjusted it until with a good swing the wheel made only one full revolution.
The other side was good so i left it as is.
I check the parking brake nut again and the brakes were working as they should. The parking brake stopped the car when I was driving so I though everything was fine.
This week, I am having the same problem. The parking brake doesn't seem to have loosened a whole lot, but my parking brake light is always on, and It won't stop the car when I am driving.
I'll check the brakes and try to adjust them again this weekend or sometime this week, but what should I be looking for? Is this a common thing? I'll go to the parts store to see if they have the adjuster part and try changing it.
My vehicle is a 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS with 38,000 miles.
I recently had work done on my rear brakes after having a pretty horrific, loud metal-on-metal grinding/screeching sound. - the pads are still at 60 percent so they did not put on new pads, but they did a rear brake adjustment, shaved the rear rotors, etc.
That horrible sound is gone, but it has been replaced by a low-frequency groan from the rear brakes under hard stopping, from about 10mph down to 0mph. I honestly could not even hear it myself with the radio on but noticed it when coming to a stop without the radio on. It usually stops happening after a couple hard stops, then happens again the next time I get in the car and go somewhere.
To describe the sound, under those exact braking conditions it almost sounds like what driving a car through snow sounds like. Or a shoveling snow sound, minus the sound of the shovel itself hitting the ground. I am not noticing any corresponding vibration or decrease in stopping power.
Not sure if that makes any sense, but it's the best I can do. Could it simply be rust buildup working its way out? We have had a wet, cold, snowy winter and my car is parked outside every night overnight.
I just bought my car 2 months ago from a dealer, the dealer said they fixed a router and bled the breaks. A week after I got it, I pushed the brakes and they had no resistance on them. I did it again and they were fine, so I just thought I was nuts. Later that week it happened several more times. I had my boyfriend bring it back to the dealer and they drove it and convinced him that Ford just has speed sensing brakes and that it was normal.
It went away for a month so I really didn't say too much more about it. Now every time I hit the breaks there is no resistance until I get it all the way to the floor. It will still stop, but only if it's pushed firmly to the floor, and hitting the brakes all the way to the floor is not a very smart thing to do in the winter, so I have slid many of times because of this. Am I just supposed to live with the supposed "speed sensors" or is there something really wrong?
I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
View 3 RepliesAbout a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
View 3 RepliesRecently, I changed the brakes on my 2006 Lexus GS300. Everything went real smooth with changing the front and back brakes.
When I took it for a test drive, I immediately noticed a SINGLE knock noise when I pushed on the brakes. Also, I noticed that sometimes when I got +50 mph, I'll hear the knocking noise in a repetitive fashion. If I gently apply pressure on the brakes, the knock noise stops. If I let go of the brake, the knock noise returns. It sounds like the knock noise is coming from the front-driver side area.
What the culprit could be? I've taken the wheel off a few times, took the brake pads off, put them back on, made sure the caliper screws were tight, etc.
So I'm really good with pointing out cars and what engine they may have but im a derp when it comes to going under the hood. Right now I have a 2009 v6 mustang it probably doesn't matter for my question. This has been going on for awhile and I dealt with it cause I couldn't really hear with my music on. Whenever I push on the brakes to stop it makes a pretty noisy and annoying clicking noise until I stop. Not like that weird siren noise you can here from breaks but a click click click sound. What this might be? Brake calipers need a change or what? Last time I checked, probably last year, the brake calipers were still good.
View 1 RepliesIn 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
View 1 RepliesThe transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
View 4 RepliesSome months ago airbag light went on. I carried my car to Hyundai and they reset the light and told me that the problem was probably the clock spring. But I tested the clock spring and it was ok and I tested the airbag device and was ok too. Now light is on again. I have tied a 2 ohm resistor between wires before the clock spring but light remains on.
Question: I have a cheap Chinese ELM327 OBD2 reader. Any software valid for this reader and able for reseting airbag light?
Have a 2000 accent with 155k on it. The other day noticed the oil light flickered on and off... hasn't come back on since... so I did some google research and saw some postings on possible oil pump issues. Another thing this morning went to go get the oil changed and they said they wouldnt change it cause iut was knocking a little.... so I have a feeling both these issues are related somehow... Last thing when I check the oil with the car cold.. I pull the dipstick and dont see any oil on it.... but when its running you pull the dipstick and it shows the oil.....
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 7.3 with about 114,000 miles. I just had my water pump, thermostat and belt replaced about a week ago. I've been driving the truck since and everything feels normal. This morning I drove the truck to work and parked it for about 10 hours. Got in it after work and everything started up fine. I noticed the brake light on the dash was lit up which I thought was odd because I never use the E brake. E brake wasn't on and I stepped on the brake pedal and it felt like I had no brakes. I turned the truck off and didn't try driving it, I didn't want to risk anything if I didn't have brakes.
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