But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
View 25 Repliesmy 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
View 8 RepliesTruck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
View 14 Replies2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 RepliesSo my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
View 4 RepliesWhen engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
View 17 RepliesAwful belt noise that erupts during cold starts. I realize that this usually means a replaced belt. I want to know how to go along diagnosing which belt and then how to replace it. Here's the symptoms:
1. Awful belt screech when turned on, goes away within 20 seconds
2. Belt noise comes back when turning the wheel to back out of a right driveway
3. The STEERING WHEEL feels like it has no power steering WHILE the screeching is happening.
4. The headlights (when on) dim for about 3 seconds
5. All these symptoms happen when the temperature is below freezing and it's a cold start.
How is the belt screeching connected to the steering wheel being tough I turn?
So I am on my 3rd water pump in 75k miles.
What I am assuming what was the original OEM pump died when the water pump pulley split in 2 and wrapped the belt around the pump at 187k.
The guy I use when I don't want to work on the beast put an O'rielly's lifetime new pump on it. That lasted almost 2 years and 40k miles.
I put another O'rielly's pump on it in the fall of 16' when it started leaking on cold mornings.
9k miles latter the last pump decided to start squeaking and leaking on cold mornings again!!
So I am now putting on a factory pump that should be made of gold for the price I paid for it from the local dealer. It was almost 2x's the cost of a new aftermarket pump.
My question to the collective is...is my experience with aftermarket pumps the norm?
This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 f150 lariat 5.4 triton I just purchased a few months back with 80,000 miles on it.
I recently have been hearing a gurgling or even a water sound from under my dash board on cold mornings. Note I don't even use my heat or air conditioner and I drive about two miles to work, park my car and turn it off and for a minute or so I hear gurgling or a sloshing noise. Note some days I don't hear it when it's 60 degrees outa X warm for the day.
Now a week ago I took it to the dealer and they said yes your heater plugs were clogged, they fixed that and I can now still hear the noise....
So I have been searching around and allot of website have been saying that it's my coolant level. Now I just drove to work and here is a pic of my coolant level.
My 04 accent will not start. I have an automatic. It cranks but will not start. First I replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. Wasn't getting fire until my friend tested to coil and i tried to crank while the tester was in the ground wire while I turned it over and it cranked. Only worked for about an hour and is still not starting but it sounds like something isn't telling it to crank?
View 1 RepliesMy hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
View 3 RepliesTwo weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
View 1 RepliesThe front intermittent wipers on my 2004 hyundai accent will start then stop half way,continue all the way in the same direction then return half way and finally park. I have replaced the wiper stork switch and wiper relay [blue one in engine bay fuse box]. What controls the intermittent function? is it the bcm? and where's located?. I also have 2000 accent and its fitted with an intermittent wiper relay p/n95240-33000. The '04 is not fitted with one. I have contacted Hyundai and they weren't support.
View 1 RepliesIt is hyundai accent LC 1.6 cc dohc. It's 2013 model ...
Now my A/C dose not work the lamp of A/C switch lighting and the blower work good with all 4 speeds but no cold air .
Itested R 134 a refrigrant and it's pressure it was good (with Low side). The problem is that clutch of compressor does not rotate until I make a jumber between 30-87 pin of A/c relay and then my A/C working very good.
I know that mean I jump triple pressure sensor and thermostat sensor. I do not want make that jumper. What can I do (test anything to make my A/C working normally).
My brand new gti with the lp is forming condensation inside the headlights on cold mornings! I have seen a few threads about this, but I'm planning to get a hold of vw because I hate the dealerships and they all basically suck once you've bought the car.
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