Sons 03 accent tachometer stopped working. It now reads zero..... All other gauges fine as well as lights. Question is , is there a sensor that controls it that may be bad??
View 3 RepliesOn my way home the speedometer stopped working and the air bag light came on. The odometer is still tracking distance and one other odd thing, the radio volume goes out as soon as the clutch is released. Tried a scanner and there are no codes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent GLS with 96,000 miles. Up to now I have only needed to do regular maintenance (which I do myself usually ) and had no major issues other than the sway bar drop link problem which I found the solution to on this forum. And self destructing spark plugs (on 3 separate occasions).
The other day while driving, the car surged once like it was running out of fuel. Then the tachometer stopped functioning. And if I floored the accelerator to cause a downshift I would lose power and the car would surge until I let up on the accelerator and the car would up shift. The CEL came on and I had the code read. It was P0339. So I replace the crankshaft sensor and everything went back to normal and the CEL went off. Until 2 days later...
Today the CEL came back on. I had no issues while driving as far as I could tell. I had the code read again and it came up as P0336, P0300, P0302, and P0303. The odd thing is I have no starting or running issues. So I'm really not sure what is going on here.
The tachometer in my 2010 golf recently stopped working. it just sits at 0 RPM's no matter what. I'm not sure if it is a fuse or something else has gone wrong. I'm not even sure which fuse to replace to try and fix the problem.
View 1 RepliesI'm new and just read a thread from 2008 talking about malfunctioning overdrive. My overdrive has stopped working. It was intermittent for a while and now won't come on. A recommendation was made to replace the transmission sensor cable. How do I find/access the sensor cable for my transmission? Is there a website that shows pictures and gives instructions.
View 6 RepliesOn my Accent I'm having problems with the speedometer. Speedometer stopped working with the odometer as well. My temp gauge and gas gauge work fine. Check engine light came on, gave code p0501 which is the speed sensor. Just had Firestone replace it but it didn't fix the problem.
He gave me two conflicting things. He said that when he span the gears at the end of the cable there was nothing going on at the speedometer.
But then he said that the cable wasn't making contact with whatever it needs to in the transmission. So he said it was something in the transmission.
My problem with that is, if it was something in the transmission, shouldn't the speedometer have moved when he span the end of the cable with his hand? What else could it be?
I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
Ok this is actually on my girls car, a 2000 Altima. But i know all newer AC systems work the same. Cus its the same set up as my 98 f150. But the AC will work great for the first 15 mins or so then i notice the pump stops working(not cycling on/off) So i turn it off for 5 mins and then it starts working again and i hear the pump engaging, but it will only work for like 5 mins now. Could it be a bad pressure cycling switch or clogged condenser and gettn the AC too hot and it shuts down.
View 3 RepliesThe Speedometer is not working, it always stays on ZERO, and also the mileage are not running, so my car is not accumulating miles.
I already change the Speed Sensor (VSS), and the Transmission Speed Sensor. (Attach Files for References).
What can be wrong? Maybe the Speedometer Instrument Cluster? My car is a Hyundai Accent 2003 Auto Transmission.
I have a 2000 F150 2WD 4.6L and been thinking of installing a tachometer to my dash. I did it to an '88 Ranger easy, It had A coil, distributor and regular spark plug wires. How would I go about this project I would like to undertake?
View 2 RepliesAfter installing new glow plugs, glow plug relay, and valve cover gaskets my 2000 7.3 is throwing the 1395 code. Glow plug monitor Bank 1. Any input as to cause? Checked all connections to relay. All tight. Read something about fusible link. Where that is located? One side of relay reads 0 volts.
View 4 RepliesSuddenly my brake lights quit. Press the brake and nothing. Turn on the headlights and the rear lights turn on. Press the brake and no change. It's like I am not pressing the brake. What are the first things I should check?
2008 Accent GLS 66,000 miles
Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
I have the base model GLS, but I put fogs in and hard wired them to the battery. They've been on for about 2 years now, and yesterday I went to turn my switch on under my dash and they didn't work. Fuse is fine, wires are fine, and the bulbs look fine. I'm still thinking its the bulbs though because the other day I put my header back on and I think the bulbs hit floor and kinda bent from the contact, so I'm thinking that might be it.
View 1 RepliesToday I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
View 16 RepliesGot a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy taillights, reverse lights and brake lights all stopped working! What the problem is. The fuses are fine and the bulbs are good too. How to fix this or what I should look for to try to fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent Hatchback GS, 5 speed
My exterior driver door handle has stopped working entirely. This means gaining entry on the passenger side door. I'm fortunate enough to have a key-less entry so I don't have to manually unlock. I think the cable is broken.
My passenger window switch has stopped working. At first it did not want to open and close using the main switch on the driver door . (2008 1.6 3 door hatch). Then it also stopped operating on the single switch by the passenger door. Luckily its in a closed position. Is there any possible fixes, bar having to buy a new switch, as its proving hard to locate. Mostly main switches for the sedans available.
View 2 RepliesHad no problems until a month ago the car just stopped in the middle of driving it. It hasn't turned back on since. It cranks and sounds great, just won't turn over.
Here's everything we've changed so far:
spark plugs
ignition coils
fuel filter
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
crank shaft sensor
added gas
If there's something we're missing.
I have a 2007 accent. I just changed the oil and filter. I typically don't look at the dipstick after I change the oil but this time I did. The dipstick is ready a good 1/4 inch over full after the change. I started the car and let it run for a while and it still reads the same.
I don't see how I put too much oil in, but I am paranoid that I did. Is it typical for this model to read a little over full on the dipstick?